New to me 1929 wide (heavy?) 9" long bed and overhead silent drive casting trade

Dissassembled the QCGB today, remind me not to do this again in a hurry - oh wait, I have to take it apart again
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Boy, what a hassle. I was tempted to leave this as is, but all the felts that I could see were solid blocks of nastiness and several other bits of the lathe had blocked oil holes and the like, so in I went.

wasn't too hard to get apart, though I forgot to line up the splined type gear on the back shaft with the key, which caused an upset. Longitudinal pin in that gear wasn't too hard to get out either. No pin in the front shaft nut.

Getting it back together though, oh boy. It was all going swimmingly until it came to getting the far left gear on the back shaft pressed on. Tried all kinds of approaches, including a brass drift (warning, these gears are surprisingly soft!). What finally worked was spacing the center sliding gear and the right hand gear apart, and then driving the shaft into the housing.

Front (lower?) shaft was a royal pain, raised a burr on the thread so had to take everything apart again, but finally got it all together.

There's a periodic binding that I think is being caused by the back left spline type gear as it no longer freely rotates on its shaft but binds once a revolution. Probably a burr or upset from pushing the key into it. I'll take it apart tomorrow again and see what's going on. At least this time will be quicker!

Little wear on the gears from what I can see
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took some 320 grit wet'n'dry to the threading plate and very carefully sanded the raised part of the plate. Makes it a lot easier to read now.
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Taking it apart and putting it back together the second time was much quicker and less dramatic
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The rotating spline type gear had an upset from the key being smacked into it and the shaft had a burr on the side of the groove that the gear pin goes into. Cleaned those up and any damage I'd caused wanging on the gears with a brass drift. Also cleaned up the keyways and bores of both of those gears, so just getting them on the shaft was easier. Now everything rotates smoothly in all gears with no binding whatsoever. Phew!

Also cut a little oiling channel for the sliding pin on the range selector. There is an oil hole for it, but you'd have to be a contortionist to get to it. So I connected the pivot bore with the existing oil hole, so any oil that comes out of the pivot should flow down there.

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what a fiddle fart this was - making a couple of standoffs for the gear cover. First one that I made out of piece of 12mm boring bar shank had a 8-32 tap broken off in it on the last step. Grr. 2nd one ended up too short and then when I made the 3rd and 4th, they didn't line up with the holes in the guard. Had to gently bend one to get it to fit. No wonder the screws that came with it were bent.
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should be easier to get on and off now though
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still need to make a suitable thumb screw for the bit that bolts to the gear box

In the middle of getting p!ssed off with all of this I took a break to polish up the labels on the gear box. That made me feel better
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got a nice FIMS #2 tool post off eBay, so cleaned and regreased it, then made a bolt and T-nut for it. I think it'll be a real nice, solid tool post to use. Now I have to make some holders for it...

checking for fit
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t-nut
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in place
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Love the restoration. New here and wish i discovered this forum a long time ago. Sadly i recenly had to help a old friend dispose of all his 9 and 10 SBs plus a ton of other machines. I made a serious mistake of offering them on a rather snooty venue with poor results. In hindsight i shoulda gone and got them all and tried another (and last) resto. This is the running one he had. the others possibly 4 plus parts). Woulda coulda shoulda
 

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