New PM-935T-V Milling Machine has arrived

I would say it is going to the knee ways on the right side of the mill, but then again, it is really hard to tell from looking at pictures.

I have one of these remote cameras from Amazon just for things like this. It has really been invaluable, especially when working on cars.
 
7milesup said:
I would say it is going to the knee ways on the right side of the mill, but then again, it is really hard to tell from looking at pictures.

I have one of these remote cameras from Amazon just for things like this. It has really been invaluable, especially when working on cars.
Click to expand...
I have one of those I bought several years ago for looking for a plumbing leak in a wall. Thanks for the reminder!
 
Here is my base design. It will elevate the machine 7 inches. I'm 6'1" and it will be at a good working height and still allow me to reach the drawbar. The design allows me to get a pallet jack under it. The parts are nearly finished and I will post post photos soon.
PM935 on base SW model.jpg

PM935 Half Base drawing.jpg
 
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Mine had no dowel pins either. You will have to remove the split-nut yoke (#22) to get to the oil line that feeds the Y-axis split-nut. These videos describe the realignment process.

One

Two

Three
 
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The oil line that you point to that dives down into the saddle is the one that supplies oil to the Y-axis split-nut. You can see it from under the knee looking upward through the opening in the underside of the knee.

screenshot_5638.jpg


To get at it, you will have to remove the Split-nut yoke assembly from above the saddle. There isn't enough access room through the bottom of the knee to get into that area to insert the oil line into the Split-nut yoke. This is all fully documented in this series of photos/videos which I posted about earlier.

Once again, I recommend you seal up all the oil tubes where they enter the castings at each lube point - otherwise, half the oil you pump into the system will squirt out of the oil line fitting and drip out the bottom of the knee. If you wanted to do a complete job of it, you can order the parts from H&W Machine Repair that will provide actual screw-in end-fittings (Zerks) for each oil line but you'd also need to convert from aluminum to impregnated plastic oil lines.
 
davidpbest said:
The oil line that you point to that dives down into the saddle is the one that supplies oil to the Y-axis split-nut. You can see it from under the knee looking upward through the opening in the underside of the knee.

View attachment 409521

To get at it, you will have to remove the Split-nut yoke assembly from above the saddle. There isn't enough access room through the bottom of the knee to get into that area to insert the oil line into the Split-nut yoke. This is all fully documented in this series of photos/videos which I posted about earlier.

Once again, I recommend you seal up all the oil tubes where they enter the castings at each lube point - otherwise, half the oil you pump into the system will squirt out of the oil line fitting and drip out the bottom of the knee. If you wanted to do a complete job of it, you can order the parts from H&W Machine Repair that will provide actual screw-in end-fittings (Zerks) for each oil line but you'd also need to convert from aluminum to impregnated plastic oil lines.
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Well that takes all the mystery out of it. Now I just have to do the work. And I will definitely seal up those tubes entry points. Thanks David!
 
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