New Lathe User - Just Bought An Atlas MK2 6x18

Hi amuller , I have a MK1 also . What tool holder system are you using ? Early on , for me it became clear that the lantern was not worth the "vintageness" , I bought the OXA tool post and some holders . It was like I had a hole new machine , the parting holder is pretty good my blade is about .030 . I'm with you some stuff I just don't try to part like a large dia. of CR 1018 . I know this is not correct but this is how I received my machine , the spindle bushings had been split and that lets you "adjust " . When I part something that is giving me problems I do the tighten up , finish up and then back off . I machined some cast Nylon the other day , it was better than Alu . . Mark .
 
westsailpat said:
Hi amuller , I have a MK1 also . What tool holder system are you using ? Early on , for me it became clear that the lantern was not worth the "vintageness" , I bought the OXA tool post and some holders . It was like I had a hole new machine , the parting holder is pretty good my blade is about .030 . I'm with you some stuff I just don't try to part like a large dia. of CR 1018 . I know this is not correct but this is how I received my machine , the spindle bushings had been split and that lets you "adjust " . When I part something that is giving me problems I do the tighten up , finish up and then back off . I machined some cast Nylon the other day , it was better than Alu . . Mark .
Click to expand...

Hi Mark. I've only every used the lantern tool post I got with it. Sometime I will try a modern style. Not sure what you mean by spindle bushings. Mine has tapered roller bearings on the spindle. Yr's has a different setup?

Alan
 
I did my first parting operation last week, aluminum about 1 inch diameter with a ~1/2" bore in it. OXA QCTP and forget the dimension of the parting blade, but it was the wider one available when I ordered. I also have changed out the plastic gibs to brass, no idea if that helps a lot, or not. I made 100% sure the blade was perpendicular to the work piece, kept some lubricant on it, and went slowly. Worked fine. I knew I was pushing the tool in too fast when it chattered.
 
Hey Allen , Robert correct me if I'm wrong . Allen you have a 618 MK1 , I have a earlier MK1 that has the bushing head stock . Skowinski has the MK2 . When I first got my machine running I was using the lantern tool post , It was obvious it wasn't working as I could see the tool deflect . The main problem on mine was the dish collar that the seesaw wedge and tool holder sits on had become not flat also the top of the compound was not flat and even . To get the compound flat was easy , I just wrapped various grits of paper around a 123 block and got it perfect . Next I got the OXA QCTP , one thing about the OXA is you can use a 3/8 tool my lantern tool holders would only take 3/16 ! Allen here is some history about our machines .
http://www.lathes.co.uk/craftsman6inchmk1/
 
That's correct except for one thing. The sleeve bearing 101.07301 sold by Sears from the late 30's until 1957 and the Atlas 618 sold by Atlas from the late 30's until 1972 are contemporaries, not early and late versions. No one knows why Sears insisted upon the sleeve bearings until 1957. The other difference is the spindle nose threads. It is unfortunate that Sears and Atlas didn't agree to use the same thread pitch until 1957.
 
I also have a Atlas Mk2 10100. Bought new from Atlas in 78. Changes made over the years,
Replaced plastic gibs with steel. Installed adjustable split bushings in carriage slide screw. Reworked cross-slide nut (posted "Atlas
cross-feed alignment play"). Reworked direct drive coupling (eliminated the click/click) installed springs (from ball point pen).
Replaced drive belt with a Scotts lawn mower belt,(710190-0838) same width as original. Extended motor mount to accept
longer belt. Modifications have eliminated back-lash (almost) in cross-slide. Machine is a pleasure to work with!!!!
 
big o said:
I also have a Atlas Mk2 10100. Bought new from Atlas in 78. Changes made over the years,
Replaced plastic gibs with steel. Installed adjustable split bushings in carriage slide screw. Reworked cross-slide nut (posted "Atlas
cross-feed alignment play"). Reworked direct drive coupling (eliminated the click/click) installed springs (from ball point pen).
Replaced drive belt with a Scotts lawn mower belt,(710190-0838) same width as original. Extended motor mount to accept
longer belt. Modifications have eliminated back-lash (almost) in cross-slide. Machine is a pleasure to work with!!!!
Click to expand...

Those sound like some nice upgrades! What do you mean by "Reworked direct drive coupling (eliminated the click/click) installed springs (from ball point pen)"?

Haven't used the Atlas in some time now, as I acquired and rebuilt a South Bend 9A, which is a nice machine. Still love the little Atlas though and will definitely use it for smaller jobs and Al. Mine seems to struggle with steel a bit.
 
big o said:
I also have a Atlas Mk2 10100. Bought new from Atlas in 78. Changes made over the years,
Replaced plastic gibs with steel. Installed adjustable split bushings in carriage slide screw. Reworked cross-slide nut (posted "Atlas
cross-feed alignment play"). Reworked direct drive coupling (eliminated the click/click) installed springs (from ball point pen).
Replaced drive belt with a Scotts lawn mower belt,(710190-0838) same width as original. Extended motor mount to accept
longer belt. Modifications have eliminated back-lash (almost) in cross-slide. Machine is a pleasure to work with!!!!
Click to expand...
I also have a MkII that I bought new in 1979... SN 3516. Can you explain the "adjustable split bushing in cross slide screw" modification that you made?
 
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