New Lathe User - Just Bought An Atlas MK2 6x18

Thanks for the detailed reply wa5cab! I calculated the length of the spacer in a very rough manner by comparison to your outline, and came up with 22 mm. I'll see how close I may have gotten it.

edit: using wa5cab's method I get 26 mm for the spacer length

I noticed a picture of one of these spacer showed the end tapered to fit the spindle. The simple stepped design you suggest would be easier to machine and sounds like it would certainly work.

:eagerness:
 
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Skowinski,

The fact that it's easier to machine is just a fringe benefit. It also works much better. When you get ready to take a part out of the collet, common practice is to loosen the draw bar or tube about two turns and if the collet doesn't self-release, hit the hand wheel with the palm of your had. With the tapered-nose spacer, the hand wheel will droop. With a draw tube, the droop isn't too bad as the tube is almost as large as the spindle bore. But with a draw bar, in a 10" or 12" the droop is a little over 3/16" and when you hit the hand wheel to free the collet, the force is at an angle to the collet axis. With the stepped spacer, everything remains centered on the spindle axis without having to use both hands (one to hold the spacer in the spindle countersink).
 
Finally finished up making the drawbar spacer, out of aluminum for a first pass, and maybe that's all that's needed. I made a few mistakes along the way, but nothing that caused the spacer to be non-functional. This was actually the first part I designed and produced, so I'm pretty happy about that (I know, it's dead simple, but I'm an absolute beginner at this). I learned a lot along the way, even with this simple design, turning, facing, boring and parting - and it works as intended! :grin:

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Awesome job Skowinski , the only thing I would do is make a steel washer for it . I forget what collet system are you using , do you have the MT2 collet nose or are you using MT2 collets ? Mark .
 
Thanks westsailpat. Steel washer would go between the hand wheel and the spacer I presume?

I'm using MT2 collets that fit directly in the end of the spindle.
 
The washer would go in between the spacer and the end of the lathe . I would make the OD the OD of the spacer and the ID to slip over the part of the spacer that goes into the lathe . It would act the same as a washer under a bolt . Actually one in between the wheel and the spacer is a good idea too . Skowiniski , when you put the collet in the lathe how much does it stick out past the spindle ? Mine sticks out about 3/8 .
 
Same here , how awesome it would have been to increase the dia . of the spindle so the collet could go back all the way . Well I'm not going to stress about it . I won't be taking big cuts , the main thing is run out . On the other hand collets are not that hard and can be machined for a better fit , but I really wouldn't think it would be worth it .
 
I've had a "Mark 1" for about fifty years. I haven't run it a lot of hours but the only think that's ever worn out is the lead screw half-nuts. I've never been able part off with it--It's just not rigid enough, or my technique is defective. So I have always made a starting groove and done the cutting with a hacksaw. No problems with deterioration of the Zamac handwheels and gears. Nice little lathe. Happens that I also have a 7" mini-lathe of the common Chinese sort. Aside from obviously being different lengths, I'd say they both have their pros and cons.
 
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