New Counter-shaft Bushings

Wierd Harold said:
A really nice project is to make new bearing carriers and use pressed in sealed ball bearings, Clean quiet and you should never have to touch them. View attachment 291269View attachment 291270
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I've had the round stock , four bearing & 20 inches of precision ground drill rod for a while now . The bearing will have to be a press fit on the shaft ..which could be "interesting ".

How did you get the driven pulley assembly off the shaft . Mine's made of Bakelite so are the speed change pullies , they have what appears to be a tapered pin knocked through them to secure them . I'm a bit scared to start pin & punching at it in case if slips a bit and breaks the Bakelite collars. Is it indeed a tapered pin or just an interference fit parallel pin or do yours have Allen headed grub screws to secure them to the shaft ?
 
Yours must be an Acorn. All of the Atlas original pulleys were either Zamak or Aluminum. We don't unfortunately have any Acorn parts manuals that I know of. Some of the Atlas pulleys have set (grub) screws and some have Woodruff keys in the shaft with the pulley(s) positioned longitudinally by two collars with Allen set screws. None that I know of had either tapered groove pins or roll pins.

With groove pins (which are tapered), you can usually ID the small end by the small groove that will be visible only on the large end.
 
wa5cab said:
Yours must be an Acorn. All of the Atlas original pulleys were either Zamak or Aluminum. We don't unfortunately have any Acorn parts manuals that I know of. Some of the Atlas pulleys have set (grub) screws and some have Woodruff keys in the shaft with the pulley(s) positioned longitudinally by two collars with Allen set screws. None that I know of had either tapered groove pins or roll pins.

With groove pins (which are tapered), you can usually ID the small end by the small groove that will be visible only on the large end.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Robert .
It looks like I'll have to get the big magnifying glass out and some ether ( Cold start spray ) cleaning fluid and do a bit of careful scraping & cleaning .
The end stops on the counter shaft are as you describe . The driven pulley pair have a pinned to the shaft steel dog drive , that will also have to come off if I cannot put the new bearings & holders on from the RH end of the shaft .
 
If you can, post a side view photo of the Acorn equivalent to the Atlas 10-107X Countershaft Spindle Assembly. And point out where there are pins, as the Atlas version has a Woodruff key to drive the cone pulley and has no pins anywhere. Be sure, before removing any pins, to mark the shaft and the pinned part so that you can rotate that or those parts to the original orientation as 180 out may not work.
 
wa5cab said:
Yours must be an Acorn. All of the Atlas original pulleys were either Zamak or Aluminum. We don't unfortunately have any Acorn parts manuals that I know of. Some of the Atlas pulleys have set (grub) screws and some have Woodruff keys in the shaft with the pulley(s) positioned longitudinally by two collars with Allen set screws. None that I know of had either tapered groove pins or roll pins.

With groove pins (which are tapered), you can usually ID the small end by the small groove that will be visible only on the large end.
Click to expand...
Robert ,

Thanks for the above post .. I got to deep cleaning the cross shaft with it removed.


I found the grub screws like you said . It's only the steel dog being driven by the Bakelite drive pulley that is held with a taper pin . The end float & main stepped pulley movement stops are as you said grub screws. Found the small end of the taper pin once all the crud was scratched out & cleaned with a volatile cleaner .

Next step is for me to turn the two bearing carriers & press fit them with two ball bearings each , possibly on the old cross shaft axle for I'm guessing the actual shaft has a key to drive the main stepped Bakelite pulley .
 
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