Need some ideas on expanding the outer edge

Start with a full coin.
Drill a hole in the center to be able to mount it on a mandrel.
Trepan off the ring at the desired wall thickness.
Use your pipe stretcher to increase the diameter of the ring so that a full coin will fit inside it with the desired force. You may need to anneal the ring to get it to stretch and not just break, the ring will want to break due to the knurling on the outside, every single knurl is a stress riser.
Glue a full coin to a flat surface with a removable glue, machine this coin to the desired final thickness, I would guess the thinner the better, It may take a few tries to learn just how far you can go.
Solder this to the ring being careful to mot melt the thin coin parts or use to much solder where it will make a big fillet on the inside corner.
Polish off any excess solder on the outside of the joint.

For this job I do not think you want or need to use a silver brazing alloy, It heat is likely to damage the parts and this will not be a highly stressed joint. Even electrical grade solder, good old 60/40 if you can still find it, will be more than strong enough and is close enough to the color of the coin that it will be hard to spot. There are silver bearing solders that have 3 to 8% silver added that will also work well and melt at about the same temp as electrical solder, they are a bit stronger and flow really well into thin cracks.
 
Flyinfool said:
Start with a full coin.
Drill a hole in the center to be able to mount it on a mandrel.
Trepan off the ring at the desired wall thickness.
Use your pipe stretcher to increase the diameter of the ring so that a full coin will fit inside it with the desired force. You may need to anneal the ring to get it to stretch and not just break, the ring will want to break due to the knurling on the outside, every single knurl is a stress riser.
Glue a full coin to a flat surface with a removable glue, machine this coin to the desired final thickness, I would guess the thinner the better, It may take a few tries to learn just how far you can go.
Solder this to the ring being careful to mot melt the thin coin parts or use to much solder where it will make a big fillet on the inside corner.
Polish off any excess solder on the outside of the joint.

For this job I do not think you want or need to use a silver brazing alloy, It heat is likely to damage the parts and this will not be a highly stressed joint. Even electrical grade solder, good old 60/40 if you can still find it, will be more than strong enough and is close enough to the color of the coin that it will be hard to spot. There are silver bearing solders that have 3 to 8% silver added that will also work well and melt at about the same temp as electrical solder, they are a bit stronger and flow really well into thin cracks.
Click to expand...
my lathe is a grizzly G0602 i have been using 5c emergency collets any particular mandrel i should know about ?cause in the past i have bought stuffnot knowing theres ton of other stuff to get up and going .thanks ahead of time.
 
FWIW.... looks like you’re using a copper alloy coin. Pre 1964 coins are 90% silver. Silver is much softer. It’s going to be easier using silver in my opinion.
 
Mandrel is easy.
Put a chunk of scrap stock in the 3 jaw, face it, drill it, tap it, bolt the drilled coin to it, trepan it, done.
 
Tim9 said:
FWIW.... looks like you’re using a copper alloy coin. Pre 1964 coins are 90% silver. Silver is much softer. It’s going to be easier using silver in my opinion.
Click to expand...
i agree but people want to do magic with things that are more likly to be real world and cheaper
 
tim6575 said:
i agree but people want to do magic with things that are more likly to be real world and cheaper
Click to expand...
It isn’t that easy to distinguish a Kennedy half dollar that is silver versus a Kenney Half Dollar that’s copper clad. The motto hasn’t changed. They are both Kennedy Half Dollars
buying a silver Kennedy only cost 9.50 more than the copper. Am I missing something ?
 
Flyinfool said:
Start with a full coin.
Drill a hole in the center to be able to mount it on a mandrel.
Trepan off the ring at the desired wall thickness.
Use your pipe stretcher to increase the diameter of the ring so that a full coin will fit inside it with the desired force. You may need to anneal the ring to get it to stretch and not just break, the ring will want to break due to the knurling on the outside, every single knurl is a stress riser.
Glue a full coin to a flat surface with a removable glue, machine this coin to the desired final thickness, I would guess the thinner the better, It may take a few tries to learn just how far you can go.
Solder this to the ring being careful to mot melt the thin coin parts or use to much solder where it will make a big fillet on the inside corner.
Polish off any excess solder on the outside of the joint.

For this job I do not think you want or need to use a silver brazing alloy, It heat is likely to damage the parts and this will not be a highly stressed joint. Even electrical grade solder, good old 60/40 if you can still find it, will be more than strong enough and is close enough to the color of the coin that it will be hard to spot. There are silver bearing solders that have 3 to 8% silver added that will also work well and melt at about the same temp as electrical solder, they are a bit stronger and flow really well into thin cracks.
Click to expand...
dont have the patients to solder need 5 arms for the shzzz
 
Tim9 said:
It isn’t that easy to distinguish a Kennedy half dollar that is silver versus a Kenney Half Dollar that’s copper clad. The motto hasn’t changed. They are both Kennedy Half Dollars
buying a silver Kennedy only cost 9.50 more than the copper. Am I missing something ?
Click to expand...
sorry miss understood i was thinking walking liberty my mistake
 
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