Will
Where did you purchase your halogen light fixture for your mill
Tks
ed

Ed, the halogen light on my mill came with the mill. My lathe also came with the same lght but I replaced it with something else. I forget if the one on the mill was 50w. On my lathe it came with a 25w bulb & I replaced it with a 50w bulb before I replaced it. If the mill light came with 25w, then I probably replaced it with a 50w too.

It runs on 24v. grizzly used to sell them & also saw them on ebay (not sureif they still do). There was also a flourescent version but I have no idea how bright it is. If it's not listed on Grizzly's site anymore I know you can still probably get it as a replacement part from a G4003G or other.
 
You might also consider replacing the Halogen lamp with a LED, very bright without the heat. You need to check on the voltage and that they will run on AC if using a 24VAC transformer (this particular one will run on 12-24V). I also prefer the whiter LEDs "Day Light" (3500-6000K) when machining. On the mill, a combination of lights helps prevent shadows, especially the spindle ring light is great. I use a 10W rectangular LED landscape flood light for my second lighting source on my mill. On my lathe I will add some back lighting along the back top edge of the splash guard.

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Thanks the for suggestion. I used to build custom flashlights (same SN on CPF) & is how I got into machining. So I am a LED guy & I'm very familiar with using LEDs & drivers. As much as I am a LED guy, I actually prefer the 50W halogens I'm using on my lathe & mill. LED technology keeps advancing & someday I may build me some LED fixtures but for now I'm fine with what I'm using now or until I run out of my bulb supply (I have 10 spares but haven't had one burn out yet in years).


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Got me some new finishing cutters for my mill. I do have a Glacern FM45 face mill which I love & it gives a nice finish but with these new cutters, I get even more beautiful finishes. But they can't remove material as fast as the face mill though....yep, they're good ol' fly cutters and I'm using inserts with them.


My BIG fly cutter, including a couple of smaller ones (more info here). I mainly wanted the big one so I could face 5"-6" in one shot.

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And the 2 smaller fly cutters it came with.
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I got this one, not for a better finish, but so it will save me money by allowing me to use the "unused" corners of my turning inserts. I use CCGT alot & for some reason I always kept all my old broken/worn inserts, glad I did. Tested it today & to my surprise it leaves a beautiful finish also!

It's a Dorian Recycle cutter, 2" dia, R8 shank, uses the 100° corners of CCMT inserts (more info posted here).

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I like the PM45 but I am new to machining, still have not figured out when I can use the power downfeed.
 
I like the PM45 but I am new to machining, still have not figured out when I can use the power downfeed.

I just replied in the other thread. It was only a couple hundred more when I got my mill so I wanted it.
 
The drawbar that came with my mill is a piece of junk. the 7/16" thread was cut so poorly I don't think I could have copied the quality it if i tried to. It doesn't thread into an arbor smoothly & the whole draw bar wobbles bad. The metric thread on top was so loose, makes me wonder if I could thread a SAE nut on it! It works but I wanted to make a replacement for it. Nothing complicated but here's how I made it.

I happen to read this thread a while back, not thinking I would have to do the same thing some day. I haven't been using my PM932 due to issues with the drawbar. It took a while to finish other things but I finally removed it yesterday and found out I had the exact same problem. Mine were cut very poorly and the threads are slightly deformed as well. The collet could only connect by maybe 2 threads but it wasn't completely straight due to the deformed end, so the drawbar would spin wildly. So thanks for all your posts because they really do help.
 
Does anyone know the ACME Leadscrew thread sizes for the PM45? I am wanting to fabricate a Delrin Anti-backlash nut for each axis. The x axis appears to be a 1-8, I get 0.9936 in eight turns on my DRO. Reversing direction back to zero on the hand dial leaves me with a positive .0008. It is about .1242 per turn. Close but not exactly the 8 threads per inch.
 
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