My next CNC project - a CNC router

[DavidR8]

Looks like you need to get some compression bits so you don't get all that edge fuzz. PM me and I'll send you some of our bits that have been take out of service because they have started to show signs of melamine edge wear. Likely run fine for most home projects and if nothing else will give you a chance to evaluate their performance. You can buy Onsurd's coated bits, 3/8" compression spirals abut $85 after bulk discounts, excellent bits. Run @ 16,000rpm & 600"/min. feed.

Thanks ever so much!
PM on the way!

 

[DavidR8]

I tried out vcarving for the first time.
Went ok in my books.


Tried using my corner finder today and ran into a bit of a problem.
When I tried to clip on the magnet that is connected to the DC0 I got a spark.
Eventually found a proximity sensor with an internal short sending 24v+ to the sensor body thus energizing the entire steel mass so connecting the DC0 lead was dead short and shut down the software.
New sensor is on it's way.
In the mean time I made a quick sensor mount out of acrylic to isolate the sensor from the frame.

 

[extropic]

The vcarving looks great.

What's left to do before you consider the machine completed?

 

[DavidR8]

The vcarving looks great.

What's left to do before you consider the machine completed?

The biggest item to complete is the limit switch wiring. Right now it's just temporarily connected so I could get running.

Currently I have five limit switches each running a separate cable back to the enclosure.
They each have a 24v+ and 24v- and a signal wire.
There's no need to have five separate sets of 24v +/- wires so I bought one of these things in the photo to consolidate the power and signal wires from the five switches into one eight pair cable.
This block gets mounted up on the end of the X axis gantry where all of the switch wires enter the cable chain.
Each set of three switch wires go into one of the six, three-pin terminal blocks. I'll only need five as I only have five switches.
Then I connect the eight pair cable to the strip of terminals at the bottom. The two left pins are 24v+ and 24v-. The other six are for the signal wires from the switches.
I will connect one pair of wires to the 24v+ and 24v- and five wires into five of the remaining terminals.
I will run this cable to the enclosure where I I connect the 24v+ and 24v- wires to the 24v+ and 24v- distribution bus. The five wires for signal go to the control board.

Other than that I have to connect my e-stop switch and then I can make the door for the enclosure and button it up.

 

[macardoso]

The biggest item to complete is the limit switch wiring. Right now it's just temporarily connected so I could get running.

Currently I have five limit switches each running a separate cable back to the enclosure.
They each have a 24v+ and 24v- and a signal wire.
There's no need to have five separate sets of 24v +/- wires so I bought one of these things in the photo to consolidate the power and signal wires from the five switches into one eight pair cable.
This block gets mounted up on the end of the X axis gantry where all of the switch wires enter the cable chain.
Each set of three switch wires go into one of the six, three-pin terminal blocks. I'll only need five as I only have five switches.
Then I connect the eight pair cable to the strip of terminals at the bottom. The two left pins are 24v+ and 24v-. The other six are for the signal wires from the switches.
I will connect one pair of wires to the 24v+ and 24v- and five wires into five of the remaining terminals.
I will run this cable to the enclosure where I I connect the 24v+ and 24v- wires to the 24v+ and 24v- distribution bus. The five wires for signal go to the control board.

Other than that I have to connect my e-stop switch and then I can make the door for the enclosure and button it up.
View attachment 400422

Can you share a link for that board? I like that one.

 

[DavidR8]

Can you share a link for that board? I like that one.

Here's what I bought:

16.2US $ 10% OFF|Proximity Switch Sensor Terminal Block Two wire Three wire PLC Input Module Photoelectric Conversion Board NPN / PNP 6 way|Switches| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Here's one like it for eight switches

DIN Rail Mount PLC 8 Channel PNP Input Screw Terminal Block IO photoelectric Proximity Switch Sensor Terminal Block., Controls - Amazon Canada

DIN Rail Mount PLC 8 Channel PNP Input Screw Terminal Block IO photoelectric Proximity Switch Sensor Terminal Block. in Controls.

www.amazon.ca

 

[DavidR8]

Started rewiring my limit switches into the consolidation block.
Block is mounted at the end of the cable tray on the gantry.

 

[DavidR8]

I am utterly blown away by this community.
These beautiful Onsrud, solid carbide two-flute router bits just arrived.

Thank you so much @Larry$!

 

[Larry$]

Onsrud, solid carbide two-flute endmills

Just to be sure that it is understood, these are compression router bits used for cutting sheet goods in woodworking. They pull up from the bottom and down from the top so no surface tear out is done to the material. These were used to cut 120 to 150 panels on our CNC router and replaced when slight damage would start to show on melamine panels. We run at conservative speeds and feeds so smaller parts aren't pushed out of alignment. 16,000 rpm, 600"/min. We've had this 5 x 10 Komo router for a long time. 12 hp spindle, 8 position tool changer and a drill box. A 40 hp vacuum pump holds the parts in place. Typical time to cut & drill a 5 x 10 sheet into cabinet parts is 6-7 minutes with about 4 minutes to stick bar code labels on & change out boards & parts. Old Tech, new systems can be much faster.
David, when you program your router, start the cut outside of the part and do a tangential curve into the cut line to prevent plunge chipping. The bottom of the bit will be pulling up and want to lift the surface of the work and it will chip. Once the bit is in past the up spiral all will be fine. Cut into your spoil board slightly so that the flutes are cutting at the panel surface rather than the tips of the bit. Theses bits can be sharpened but the coating will be lost.

 

[DavidR8]

Just to be sure that it is understood, these are compression router bits used for cutting sheet goods in woodworking. They pull up from the bottom and down from the top so no surface tear out is done to the material. These were used to cut 120 to 150 panels on our CNC router and replaced when slight damage would start to show on melamine panels. We run at conservative speeds and feeds so smaller parts aren't pushed out of alignment. 16,000 rpm, 600"/min. We've had this 5 x 10 Komo router for a long time. 12 hp spindle, 8 position tool changer and a drill box. A 40 hp vacuum pump holds the parts in place. Typical time to cut & drill a 5 x 10 sheet into cabinet parts is 6-7 minutes with about 4 minutes to stick bar code labels on & change out boards & parts. Old Tech, new systems can be much faster.
David, when you program your router, start the cut outside of the part and do a tangential curve into the cut line to prevent plunge chipping. The bottom of the bit will be pulling up and want to lift the surface of the work and it will chip. Once the bit is in past the up spiral all will be fine. Cut into your spoil board slightly so that the flutes are cutting at the panel surface rather than the tips of the bit. Theses bits can be sharpened but the coating will be lost.

Thanks again Larry, I wondered if they were compression bits but having never seen one I wasn't sure.
Really appreciate the advice on toolpath programming, I'm still learning that whole side of the game.