My Logan 12x24 lathe project

[Rennkafer]

Ya, the gearbox isn't in terrible shape (and I've also seen dirtier taking apart stuff at work). The shaft the handles run on has some dinks in it that look to have been caused by lathe crashes stopping the shaft. This lathe has a "safety gear" on the input that keeps things from breaking but apparently doesn't entirely prevent damage. The lathe, having been a school machine, probably got more than its fair share of that sort of abuse being used by beginners. New parts from Logan can be a bit on the spendy side, but it's much preferable to not being able to get them at all. To give you an idea, just the new bushings for the gearbox are ~$100, the shaft and 22T gear are another ~$130. I think it will make the lathe operation enough smoother to make that worthwhile though, as the quick change box gets a pretty fair amount of use.

Geoff, I like your idea of removing the data plate, though not sure I will on this piece as it's a pretty easy one to mask. My mill project though, I'll be doing a lot of that as the scales are pretty beat up. Did you just give the brads a couple whacks with the punch them pull them with pliers or something?

 

[110octane]

Ya, the gearbox isn't in terrible shape (and I've also seen dirtier taking apart stuff at work). The shaft the handles run on has some dinks in it that look to have been caused by lathe crashes stopping the shaft. This lathe has a "safety gear" on the input that keeps things from breaking but apparently doesn't entirely prevent damage. The lathe, having been a school machine, probably got more than its fair share of that sort of abuse being used by beginners. New parts from Logan can be a bit on the spendy side, but it's much preferable to not being able to get them at all. To give you an idea, just the new bushings for the gearbox are ~$100, the shaft and 22T gear are another ~$130. I think it will make the lathe operation enough smoother to make that worthwhile though, as the quick change box gets a pretty fair amount of use.

Geoff, I like your idea of removing the data plate, though not sure I will on this piece as it's a pretty easy one to mask. My mill project though, I'll be doing a lot of that as the scales are pretty beat up. Did you just give the brads a couple whacks with the punch them pull them with pliers or something?

Yes, after I put some masking tape over the printed "panel", I just went around the brad head with the punch about every 45 degrees and just kept tapping. The head rose up just a little and they get loose when this happens and the brad may be prised (pry) up with a screwdriver or pulled with pliers or end nippers. It just takes a little patience. One thing, simple bushings are easy to replicate on the lathe (or a spare lathe) and if you are lucky enough to score an involute cutter of the right number, you can use the old gear as an indexing tool to cut a new gear; spur gears are the easiest to cut. Nice lathe, good luck Geoff Morgan

 

[Rennkafer]

Yes, after I put some masking tape over the printed "panel", I just went around the brad head with the punch about every 45 degrees and just kept tapping. The head rose up just a little and they get loose when this happens and the brad may be prised (pry) up with a screwdriver or pulled with pliers or end nippers. It just takes a little patience. One thing, simple bushings are easy to replicate on the lathe (or a spare lathe) and if you are lucky enough to score an involute cutter of the right number, you can use the old gear as an indexing tool to cut a new gear; spur gears are the easiest to cut. Nice lathe, good luck Geoff Morgan

Ah ok Geoff, that's sort of what I thought you meant, thanks for clarifying. If I had access to another lathe/mill I could make most every part I need, unfortunately I don't (can't use anything at work, Fed. Gov't gets pissy about that). My apprenticeship was served rebuilding plant equipment (lathes, mills, etc), so I did quite a lot of this sort of repair work. We never painted anything though, it just had to make accurate parts. After I quit doing that and went into car restorations I got pretty good at painting pieces, this is my first foray into combining the two.

Thanks again!

 

[110octane]

Well we know you don't work for the IRS! Of course, the term "government work" is reserved for the General (and his/her adjunct)! I wish I could paint better than I can. At my advancing age it's a bit like my welding somedays I can lay a respectable bead and other days it's tough to strike an arc. In my younger days I passed the ASME Section IX a couple of times, the secret there was my age, training, and good equipment with the correct settings. Using a buzz box or a cheap MIG machine requires more skill....

I have a variety of spray guns that I have collected. I've got a Binks custom special made for Mr. Binks himself (the surprise on the Binks parts guy voice when I called for a parts list was priceless - the gun was given to me as part of an old body shop that went out of business and scrapped a bunch of stuff - I had the broken handle TIG welded by an expert colleague {private industry can be a little more forgiving in some cases}. This gun gives a very nice pattern and control but wow does it eat paint. I have a big time DeVilbiss that can be configured for a remote paint tank and can throw more paint than heaving a five gallon bucket. Lately my favorite gun is a Harbor Freight (?!) HVLP hand gun. It uses compressed air as opposed to the fan style, so I don't think it is HVLP in the strictest sense. It is economical on paint and has reasonable amount of control and a decent pattern. I usually use a urethane hardener and some serious breathing protection.

Painting machinery is much more forgiving than spraying an auto, motorcycle, etc. I like the Detzler (may be PPG, just not Sherwin-Williams) brand of "Shop Line" acrylic enamels. They can be shot with or without hardener and offer a lower cost than the higher priced auto stuff. I have not tried the newer "clear coat" base coat automotive products. As I understand it the base coat does not have a great deal of sheen and when you spray the clear coat you can see the gloss develop. I think I might leave that to the professionals.

Obviously, since you have refurbished a variety of machines and machine tools, you are no neophyte as to the process! The Logan should prove to be an excellent machine. Geoff Morgan

 

[stonehands]

Ya, the gearbox isn't in terrible shape (and I've also seen dirtier taking apart stuff at work). The shaft the handles run on has some dinks in it that look to have been caused by lathe crashes stopping the shaft. This lathe has a "safety gear" on the input that keeps things from breaking but apparently doesn't entirely prevent damage. The lathe, having been a school machine, probably got more than its fair share of that sort of abuse being used by beginners. New parts from Logan can be a bit on the spendy side, but it's much preferable to not being able to get them at all. To give you an idea, just the new bushings for the gearbox are ~$100, the shaft and 22T gear are another ~$130. I think it will make the lathe operation enough smoother to make that worthwhile though, as the quick change box gets a pretty fair amount of use.

Geoff, I like your idea of removing the data plate, though not sure I will on this piece as it's a pretty easy one to mask. My mill project though, I'll be doing a lot of that as the scales are pretty beat up. Did you just give the brads a couple whacks with the punch them pull them with pliers or something?

Rennkafer, Great job on the re-finish, I just finished a 10" Atlas in time to sell it to a friend in order to buy a Heavy 10 that I have to do the same restoration on. It must be a middle aged, male only sickness. Like you, I thought the price of the Logan parts bordered on the spendy, I might be able to help a bit. I just went thru a 70's stash of Logan gears from a school system and there was a wire loop with 4- 22T gears with a raised key. Let me know if you havn't ordered yet. These appear to be NOS or at the least in mint condition-after 30yrs in a box it's sometimes hard to tell. Let me know.--David

 

[Rennkafer]

Haven't ordered anything yet, David... I'll get a picture of the gear in question and we can compare to what you have. Thanks!

 

[Rennkafer]

Finally had a chance to go out and clean up the good (relatively) 22 tooth gear from the QC box. If this is what you have David, I'd be interested, please PM me with what you're looking to get for one or two of the bunch you have. The other thing I haven't been able to locate so far is the "Logan" script plate that should be on the front of the headstock. If anyone has one (or knows where one may be other than Logan) please let me know.

Here's the gear pic with dimensions...



This is the plate I'm looking for, the large "Logan" on the front of the headstock...

 

[Rennkafer]

Got the new gears for the QC box from David yesterday and they look great, thanks so much! Now I'm just waiting for the shaft and some other bits to get here from Logan (well that and getting around to finishing repainting the QC box casting... been busy on another project).

 

[OldSkull]

This is mine And I got some spare gears....The metric combo (100/127) and the big face plate are for a Powermatic 14" Logan....I gone try to sell them to get the one for my 12" ASAP

 

[OldSkull]

Got problem posting my reply....Anyway ...I'm happy to found a thread about a 12" Logan , I install a 1.5 3 phases motor in mine and use a VFD to control it....A bit overkill since we already got a mechanical speed control... I may convert again and use a 110/230 V single phase Baldor motor, I install a BXA phase II tools post on mine (Got it with a 30% rebate from Enco) Again ...It's a bit overkill but the price was to good to let go...^_^ I enjoy your restoration thread, I almost pay $1000 for mine 2 years ago.