My first milling machine, Atlas MFB. Getting ready to restore, although maybe it doesn't need it?

Thank you everyone, I appreciate your input, I am learning a lot. Found all the manuals for it and will start reading today and take it for a test spin this afternoon.

I have a few questions, what is the preferred lube these days for spindle, backgear shaft etc.? 1945 was a long time ago and lubricants have changed. I think 20W was mentioned somewhere, can't recall. I use AW32 or 46 on my Hercus lathe spindle and slides.

The cracked hand wheel, the crack looks older but we bumped the handle when moving it and I have the missing little piece that came out. I assume this is pot metal or similar un-weldable material, could this be a job for JB Weld or similar?

Thanks again for all of your help.

Cheers
 
Nice find. Looks to be in nice shape other than the minor things which can be easily fixed.
 
The preferred lube is 20W non-detergent oil. That can be hard to find. Try your local hardware store. The handle is die cast Zamac. I don't know if Zamac is weldable. It has a low melting temperature. Used Atlas handles can be found on Ebay. The same handle was used on some Atlas lathes, which are more common. Another option is to buy a new handle from McMaster-Carr or your equivalent in Canada and machine it to fit.
 
matthewsx said:
This is what I use for oil, it’s iso 68 hydraulic oil and something similar should be available at your local auto supply. John
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Thanks John,

I have 7 pieces of heavy equipment here, all with hydraulics so I have 20L pails in the shop. That's pretty much what I use in my lathes except I use 46, I have it loaded in my squirt can so will continue to use that. As you mention, not critical.

Cheers
 
kilohertz said:
Thanks guys!

I didn't get a chance to take any more pics today as I was busy moving the rest of the work benches drill press and such, but I did get it moved to my workbench and found it is an MFB, remember this is all new to me and I just thought it looked like and MFC from the few pics I have looked at. I'll have time tomorrow to take some closeup pics and post them here and go thru a few more things on it. I know there are a few loose/cracked controls, the dial/knobs that you move the table with, all repairable though. It probably just needs a good cleaning and re-lube. I looked under the covers and its lubed but seems dirty looking, like it hasn't been serviced in years.

More tomorrow.

Cheers
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You’ve been a member for four years.
Don’t be bashful, we would love to hear more about your shop, your projects and more about you.
Cheers mate,
Jeff
 
Today I made time to have a good look at the MFB and found a few things of concern. I powered it up and it seemed to run fine, but noisy, found 2 pulleys loose, tightened and better now. I tried various speeds on the motor pulleys and found it won't start up on the highest speed, even with coaxing. If it really has Timken spindle bearings, they need cleaning, very grumbly and possibly too tight. I need to read the manual to find out how to service them. Also the knee axis is VERY stiff, not sure if it's the ways or the lead screw nut...I made a few videos to let you hear the sounds it's making.

Look forward to your thoughts.

cheers

Noisy MFB

More noisy MFB

MFB running

back gear pin play??
 
Looks decent.
Push oil through all the lube locations, and check that the spindle bearings are adjusted properly. It is unlikely to have been used much.

BTW, the LH table and vertical feed handles/wheel are swapped which will contribute to struggle when raising the knee.

The noisy sounds are from the longitudinal feed mechanism/gear train (at back of machine). There is a 3 position level that should be in mid detent when not using the auto feed. At some point it is worth removing that whole assembly (only 3 bolts IIRC) and cleaning/regreasing what is in there. Also gives you access to the spindle preload nut at the same time.
 
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I have watched a youtube video on how to dismantle the machine and I have a question regarding the removal of the arbor and morse taper unit. I have loosened the drawbar and gently tapped the end of it but the shaft isn't budging. How hard can this be hit without doing damage? I am using a wood block and small hammer. Also, what is the best way to remove the drive dog, the 2 slot arbor driver unit. It has a hole for a wrench but I don't have the wrench, it looks like many people have used a round punch to loosen it. Can I use the back gear to keep it from rotating or is that asking for trouble. Or the bull gear and it's pin?

Appreciate the help.

Cheers
 
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