My First Lathe, But It Needs Some Work, Where To Start?

You've bought a good project lathe to learn on. When you've made all the repairs and you're ready to upgrade (notice I said "when"), you'll have one to sell and make the upgrade easier financially. That gives the wife less to be unhappy about. Each time you upgrade you'll learn more and gain confidence to become a better machinist.

I'm on my 4th lathe. :grin: My first two upgrades were free. I paid the same for the new one as I got for my old one. The last upgrade only cost $300 after I sold the previous machine. I moved up from a 10" machine to a 13" (didn't even need any pills :rolleyes:). Your current machine will be worth much more when it is in good working condition.

GG
 
Thanks for all the advice so far. Should I move this start-up/ re-build discussion over to the Atlas/Craftsman section of the forum?

-Matt
 
As long as the thread is still active & you don't have different questions I'd let the thread run.
 
Hi Matt,
I have an Altas lave the next size up from yours. I came across a lot of similar problems to yours when I first got it.
One by one I the things that needed doing the most and fixed them.
One of my Feed gears had a tooth missing. I think a previous owner had replaced the original zirmac (or what ever that stuff is) with a bronze gear. It was the bronze gear that had the missing tooth. I brazed up the gap and then using a triangle file I recreated the tooth shape.

Of course it isn't exact but neither is the well worn tooth next to it :)

So if you can find something that will stick to zirmac I'd say never underestimate the power of a file.

Here is a link to my Lathe Repair Post.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/ill-just-take-this-one-part-off.19398/

BTW my cross feed handle fell off the other day. I notice it was not threaded and it must have originally been a press fit.
So I used a centre punch on the shaft of the handle in a couple of places and tapped the handle back into the hole again. If you make your self a handle with the shaft .001 or .002" bigger than the hole you should be able to fit it in the hole with out the need to make threads.

Have Fun!
David
 
mws said:
Congratulations on the new lathe. My condolences to your wife on your new hobby. :) You should have many hours of satisfaction making and fixing things, beginning with your new lathe. On those busted gear teeth... whenever I've had metals that I wasn't comfortable brazing or welding I've had good luck with this method. I make a dovetail undercut in the gear where the teeth were lost and slide a block of replacement teeth into the dovetail. First, make both a positive and negative profile template of the "good" teeth. Next, file out the old teeth and continue into the gear about 2/3 the tooth depth. I usually start the undercut of the dovetail with a fine hacksaw and clean up with a small file after. Next I make block to fit the hole and then cut the teeth using hacksaw and file. That's where the profile gauges come in handy. The pressure angle of the gearing hold the block into the gear in use and as long as the block is a snug fit I've never had one come apart. I little prick punching to help hold it couldn't hurt though.

Also, when I get a new piece of equipment that needs much work I just tear it down and repair/restore anything needing attention. Do it once and be done with it. Just my method.

I tried uploading a sketch but am having difficulty uploading jpg's to an album :(. I'll edit this post if that changes.
Click to expand...
Here's the image I couldn't upload earlier. But as someone mentioned earlier, if the gears are available readily on ebay I'd probably go that way depending on price.

Toothrepair

Toothrepair

  • mws
 
I noticed the same hole in mine, gave thought to a detent ball as well, but as mentioned no corresponding dimple so just ignored it.
 
ChattyMatty said:
I noticed the same hole in mine, gave thought to a detent ball as well, but as mentioned no corresponding dimple so just ignored it.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty confident that hole was used for registering the part on a mandrel before engraving the graduations. Once you get your lathe up and running a nice first project would be to make a little knurled thumbscrew to replace that Allen screw in that part. I can't imagine having to go fiddle with a wrench every time I wanted to zero my feed screw indicator.
 
Yeah, soon as I posted that thought occurred to me too with regard to indexing. Actual first project is to come up with a dial that is actually legible, little bugger is tiny and in my case, pitted and worn to the point half of it is illegible. Not like it's more than a general reference at that scale anyway, but it's be nice to have something maybe in a grey anno aluminium in a slightly larger diameter. Besides, it's and excuse to build that tabletop CNC mill I've been threatening to build for too long now ;)
 
I'd love a better indexing dial. I have a hard time seeing the little marks. If you end up doing it, please post your process/ progress and results.
 
congrats on your new lathe, I have exactly the same one that I'm in the process of rebuilding.

Belts - 3L v belts off eBay - measure the ones you have and buy the same lengths. If one is 250mm long, it'll be a 3L250. I got mine for $4.99 each from an eBay seller who sells lawnmower parts. To replace the one on the spindle you'll have to take the spindle out, which you must do very carefully. Check out the how to on Deans Photographica (or similar, a web search should find it). You have to make sure you remove the woodruff key on the spindle under the back gear (and any burrs on the spindle from the back gear set screw) before removing the spindle or you'll damage the spindle bearing.

Back gears - if that lever is flopping around, most likely you're missing the ball bearing that fits into the handle and drops into an open or closed detent in the headstock. I think I have a back (bull?) gear that might be in better shape than yours. Not great shape, but better. I'll dig it out and see if it's usable. If it is, I'll PM you and get it in the post.

I'd personally recommend stripping it down, cleaning it and putting it back together. You'll get to know how everything works and you'll be comforted by the thought that there's no crud in there wearing stuff down as you use it. It's really simple to take to pieces, but there are a bunch of woodruff keys around that you have to remove. I take them out and put them in little baggies with whatever other bits they go with so I don't lose them.

Also, congrats on getting the change gears, that's a huge plus!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top