My first Bridgeport

I had an experience with a Induma 1-S (very similar to a BP, made in Italy) the collet key was sheared off when I got it, and other work needed to be done, including replacing the quill because someone had tried to broach with it and sheared off several teeth on the quill, so I had to remove the spindle from the quill to replace the key, which was in the form of a countersunk head teat screw. After reassembly and a few months of use, it sheared off again; I decided not to worry about any more, that was perhaps 30 years ago, and it still is the same way and works just fine, but I never used collets, rather I used end mill holders where it is easy to hold onto them while tightening the drawbar. There was a thread on the subject sometime in the past, that came to the same conclusion.
 
You're moving right along, but belated congrats on your new mill!
 
Last post for the day-

Got the Kurt vise that came with the deal apart and cleaned up. Almost brand-new in the wear department- a bit of surface rust on some of the top surface but that went away.

Anyone have any idea whatsoever as to why the speed indicator is reading backwards?

Thanks to all-

Petrolero
 
Petrolero said:
Last post for the day-

Got the Kurt vise that came with the deal apart and cleaned up. Almost brand-new in the wear department- a bit of surface rust on some of the top surface but that went away.

Anyone have any idea whatsoever as to why the speed indicator is reading backwards?

Thanks to all-

Petrolero
Click to expand...
If you still have your Kurt apart, you can get a "rebuild kit" from Kurt for about $20, and get new thrust washers/bearings, lock ring, the 1/2 sphere for the "angle lock" mechanism, dust plug. It's more than well worth doing. As for the speed indicating backwards. Not to be Captain Obvious, but do you possibly have the mill in "back gear"/low range, and looking at the wrong scale? Or possibly your 3 phase rotation is bass ackwards, and you need to swap phases? With the phase rotation reversed, it could fool you into thinking Hi was Low, and Low is Hi.
 
akjeff,

This vise appears to have no wear; the bearings, washers, lockring, the half-sphere and dust plug are virtually new. There is almost no movement-related wear to be seen on the sliding surface. Sure it was black greasy dirty, had some chips inside- but other than surface rust on the top of the movable jaw and a few other spots it is virtually new. Still had the blue grease that it came with from the mfgr holding in the half-sphere. I will say it is a heavy beast!

As to the other issue, it's a matter of spindle rotation speed vs the indicated speed on the varispeed display, not which direction the spindle is turning. I was a bit confused at first because the spindle rotates in the opposite direction depending on which position the motor switch is in, and also which position the back gear is in and until I read the user manual I pulled down I didn't realize the motor switch (which just says 'Hi' and 'Low') is also a rotation reversing switch.

The issue is, the spindle rotates faster and faster the lower I turn the varispeed selector wheel in terms of what is shown in the tortoise/hare windows. So they're backwards to what the spindle is doing in terms of speed. I'm mystified. The DPO did tell me he changed a bearing in the head.

Back at it today!
 
Petrolero said:
akjeff,
The issue is, the spindle rotates faster and faster the lower I turn the varispeed selector wheel in terms of what is shown in the tortoise/hare windows. So they're backwards to what the spindle is doing in terms of speed. I'm mystified. The DPO did tell me he changed a bearing in the head.
Click to expand...
It sounds like the speed control was assembled improperly. I had mine apart several years ago and from what I remember, it is possible to assemble it so that it works backwards.

Ted
 
Petrolero said:
akjeff,

This vise appears to have no wear; the bearings, washers, lockring, the half-sphere and dust plug are virtually new. There is almost no movement-related wear to be seen on the sliding surface. Sure it was black greasy dirty, had some chips inside- but other than surface rust on the top of the movable jaw and a few other spots it is virtually new. Still had the blue grease that it came with from the mfgr holding in the half-sphere. I will say it is a heavy beast!

As to the other issue, it's a matter of spindle rotation speed vs the indicated speed on the varispeed display, not which direction the spindle is turning. I was a bit confused at first because the spindle rotates in the opposite direction depending on which position the motor switch is in, and also which position the back gear is in and until I read the user manual I pulled down I didn't realize the motor switch (which just says 'Hi' and 'Low') is also a rotation reversing switch.

The issue is, the spindle rotates faster and faster the lower I turn the varispeed selector wheel in terms of what is shown in the tortoise/hare windows. So they're backwards to what the spindle is doing in terms of speed. I'm mystified. The DPO did tell me he changed a bearing in the head.

Back at it today!
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good score on the vise! They are a pleasure to use. Hopefully, the mill speed issue is an easy fix, and the mill becomes a good score as well! As you've discovered the hi/lo switch is basically a motor reversing switch. In Hi it's forward if the gearbox is in Hi range, and in Low it's forward if you're in Low range. Due to the back gear reversing the spindle rotation in Low range.
 
talvare-

Never underestimate what a DPO can do... I'll take the control apart and get it working properly.

Meanwhile, trying to get the y-axis damage repaired.

Thanks to all who replied to help this novice!
 
Congratulations and welcome.
Regarding the thing stuck in your power head, can you take a picture of it?
Could you also take a pic of the collets you have?
The BP should have R8 collets, you may have a set of 5C collets which are very common for spin indexers and other mill accessories.
I sure hate to see you damage your new mill.
All of us have done some silly things along the way while we learn the hobby.
Just trying to help.
 
The speed drive uses a small chain, it is wrapped around the speed control shaft backwards.
Go slow all that is required is to work from where the speed control is mounted.
When you take it apart you will understand.
No disconnecting the chain. With it disassembled turn the speed control handle until it unwinds and rewind the correct way.
Many of the after market two times draw bars have a spacer so when the first part of the draw bar threads become worn or damaged it can be cut off and have a second life.
 
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