Modifying a typical band saw to a 3-wheel setup?

kb58

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The irritation with many band saws is the blade-to-housing distance, it's always too little. I'm wondering why three-wheel bandsaws aren't a thing, where the upper and lower wheels are either left where they are or moved forward, then a third wheel is added in the vertical frame, pulling the blade back away from the table, and the frame modified to match. I have a Grizzly and am thinking about modifying it, but also realize that it'll kill whatever resale value it has. Meh, just thinking about it at this point. I know that proper band saw wheels are expensive.
 
They are a thing, and they're definitely out there. Not so common though, as it adds a bunch of complexity, material, and weight to the machine and creates a very poor geometry for the upper support, versus a larger two wheel version with the same throat. I suspect that a conversion wouldn't be a feasible thing to find instructions for, as it's going to be a VERY invasive and extensive process, with more of the "built" part than there is of the original saw when the day is over.

They are out there though. Besides, if you took (for example) a 14 inch band saw, and modified it to have a 20 inch throat, you must know as well as anybody that the first test piece you find to cut on the test drive is gonna need a 21 inch throat....
 
3 wheeled bandsaws are harder on blades because of the typically smaller wheels. All of the cycles of flexing, typically the blade will break from fatigue. The bigger the wheels, the easier it is on the blade.
 
Why not buy a 3-wheeler and modify the drive? @RaisedByWolves modified a Craftsman 10" 3-Wheeler earlier this year. I have an older, similar Craftsman I found on eBay in VG condition 10 years ago which came from the factory with variable speed and the same belt setup that RBW added to his bandsaw:

20240319 Craftsman 3-Wheeler.jpeg

20240319 Craftsman 3-Wheeler Guts.jpeg

20240319 Craftsman 3-Wheel Drive rfs.jpg

It works reasonably well on thinner sections of 6061, and eventually I'm planning (?) of changing the motor & control so it will have more low speed torque, lower minimum speed and more power. I used it to transform a section of 2-1/2" x 1/8" square 6061 tube into a 2-1/2" x 1-3/16" x 1/8" channel for my Mini-Lathe DRO project (HSM Jan/Feb 2024); didn't need the deep throat but did need to accommodate the more than 6" length that is the limit for my DeWalt 5" x 6" Portaband/SWAG vertical band saw:

Fig1 Sawing Channel from Tube.jpeg

The secret to improved blade life is to use thinner (0.014"), "tougher" blades from SuperCut™ Bandsaw Company, who has created an industry making blades for these machines:

20240817 SuperCut 3-Wheeler Blade.jpeg
They also make 14TPI blades (like I used on the square tube). You can get bimetal blades to fit the 3-wheelers from Starrett, but they are 0.025"thick (I have a 1/4" x 14TPI, but haven't tried it yet).

No, even modified to the hilt these saws will not rival @Winegrower 's beast, but they are very handy (and take up a lot less space).
 
3 wheel bandsaws are also deeper than a similar size (throat) 2 wheel. The 10" above takes up more bench space than my 9" Delta, although it is shorter in height, and maybe lighter in weight.

I think that is the main reason they are not common, there are real disadvantages with only minor advantages.
 
Increased throat depth, may not be a minor advantage for some. I wish I had the room for a such a machine and be able to cut 3' wide!
 
In the small machines the blade breaking was the issue. I can't answer for the large machines, but I don't think a KLUGE will be well done. There are too many things that are needed in initial design. Beefing up the casting is number one.
 
You can thread those for two AND three wheel operation... we used to have one in the shop

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
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