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- May 7, 2023
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THREAD HERE.Why not buy a 3-wheeler and modify the drive? @RaisedByWolves modified a Craftsman 10" 3-Wheeler earlier this year. I have an older, similar Craftsman I found on eBay in VG condition 10 years ago which came from the factory with variable speed and the same belt setup that RBW added to his bandsaw:
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It works reasonably well on thinner sections of 6061, and eventually I'm planning (?) of changing the motor & control so it will have more low speed torque, lower minimum speed and more power. I used it to transform a section of 2-1/2" x 1/8" square 6061 tube into a 2-1/2" x 1-3/16" x 1/8" channel for my Mini-Lathe DRO project (HSM Jan/Feb 2024); didn't need the deep throat but did need to accommodate the more than 6" length that is the limit for my DeWalt 5" x 6" Portaband/SWAG vertical band saw:
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The secret to improved blade life is to use thinner (0.014"), "tougher" blades from SuperCut™ Bandsaw Company, who has created an industry making blades for these machines:
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They also make 14TPI blades (like I used on the square tube). You can get bimetal blades to fit the 3-wheelers from Starrett, but they are 0.025"thick (I have a 1/4" x 14TPI, but haven't tried it yet).
No, even modified to the hilt these saws will not rival @Winegrower 's beast, but they are very handy (and take up a lot less space).
Technically the thinner blade is the way to go as it works better, ie flexes better, at the weld than a thicker blade, but they always seemed so delicate as there's no where for the heat to go if things get sporty.
Im using a Starrett Bi-metal (I think, Ill have to check) blade that is .025 thick with good results.
I think a lot of the blade thickness issues are due to a lot of these saws being marginal on power for metal cutting as the thinner blade cuts less material, therefore requiring less power.