Mini Lathe Compound

Russell Allsop

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Hi All,
I'm considering replacing my VM210 mini lathe compound with a solid mounting block.
Would cast iron be the best option as opposed to mild steel and if I went the cast iron route how difficult is cast iron to tap and machine compared to mild steel?
Looking forward to your comments and advice.
Regards,
Russell
 
Steel is tougher and less likely to fracture so I'd probably choose that
CI is messy to machine and more brittle
 
Both are relatively easy to machine. Cast iron IS a lot messier and seems to be more expensive compared to mild steel, unless you already own some CI or have an inexpensive source of the stuff. The swarf from CI is like black, abrasive dust, just what I DON'T want around my lathe.

I made a solid mounting block for my mini-lathe using 6061 aluminum. It's in the neighborhood of 2"x2" and is plenty solid for what I do. One drawback of aluminum is that it's easy to embed steel swarf into it, so I have to be careful to clean the top when I swap out tool mounts. I offset the mounting hole on my block so I could move the tool mount further out to accommodate larger stock, but there's nothing that says you can't put more than ONE mounting hole in your block....

While I was at it, I scraped the top/bottom of the mount and also scraped the top of the cross slide where the block rests. This was to increase the contact area between the block and cross slide, and between the tool mount and block. Plus, it looks purty :).

Before you drill/tap the hole for attaching your tool holders, check the pitch of the mounting hole in the compound. I had thought mine was m10-1.0 but it turned out to be m10-1.5. Fortunately I discovered that before I did the machining operations!
 
I've yet to make mine (for my little 7x14) but I've got a couple of pieces of square bar cast iron (two because I figure there's a good chance I may mess up on my first go!:grin:).

I'll be doing all the machining (other than drilling and tapping holes) on my lathe using a 4 jaw, and a vertical milling slide.

I've decided on cast iron because it's got good rigidity (not significantly better than steel of any kind, mind you, so that's not the main reason) but also because it's better at dampening vibration than steel.

I've used cast iron plates as clamping pieces underneath my lathe stand between the bolts and the steel of the stand (the lathe is on a granite counter cut-off that's on top of a 1/2" steel plate that's on top of two steel cabinets)*.

The drilling and tapping of those plates was easy; cast iron has a built-in lubricity that makes it quite easy to machine generally.

As has been said, though, it will make a right old mess. @ChazzC had a setup with a shop vac to remove the dust/chips that might be worth checking out; when I do my toolholder plinth, I'll be doing something similar :)

*The granite and the cast iron clamping pieces underneath are to try to dampen any transmitted vibration from the lathe to the steel stand; if I push cuts in steel beyond about 0.015" (about 0.4mm), I get that harmonic kicking in, the stand starts to resonate and it sounds like I'm torturing a cow! I don't yet know how effective the granite and cast iron plates are going to be because the bed is currently attached to the stand with nothing else on it; all other components are awaiting reinstall during another round of improvements I'm making.
 
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In the thread on my MX-600A below this I show what I did on post #24, there is other info in there that would apply to the vm210 I used steel because it is easier to get and is stronger in my application CI is good also.
 
Mines steel and welded construction.
construction here
 
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