Mill Clamps...which?

[mikey]

Yup, I do that too, but I cuss while I'm at it. Hey, I can't help it; stuck arbors get me really mad ...

 

[darkzero]

Yup, I do that too, but I cuss while I'm at it. Hey, I can't help it; stuck arbors get me really mad ...

I forgot to add, I persuade it with a 1/4" impact gun. Lucky I'm set on drill chucks for now & shouldn't need to change anymore arbors. That is unless I decide to start looking for an Albrecht again.

 

[EmilioG]

Tell you what - the next time I need to pop an arbor out of an Albrecht chuck, I'm going to use my bearing separator. One of the guys on the MachinistsBlog site suggested it and I think it might work better than wedges. Worth a try, mostly because I already have the separator.

That is how Royal removes the arbor from their 1 piece chucks. The knurled ring on the integral chuck is removed with a bearing separator.
You just need the correct size. A small one. The Albrecht removal tool is handy because you can remove the chuck from it's arbor while on the machine.,
otherwise, it could be held in a vise with a wood block or aluminum clamp. I did it this way once using a piece of mahogany, with the arbor in the wood block held with a vise. The wood blocks work just as well as aluminum. As long as your arbor has a shoulder. Only Jacobs chucks that have a pre-existing hole or pre drilled body hole
can be punched out. And let's not forget the appropriate arbor press. The other way is of course, a side drilled hole for a pin to create a shoulder for a removal tool.

 

[EmilioG]

I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HGGS5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Te-Co makes nice stuff and considering what is in their kits, the price is fair.

I made a set of wedges by using a long piece and screwing it (countersunk flat head screws) to a piece of scrap aluminum. Then I angled it in the vise to cut and slot it. Making them worked fine but they still bent when trying to remove a stuck arbor from an Albrecht chuck. Wedges suck!

That's a good set and for $126.00 plus free shipping, awesome! Thanks

 

[coffmajt]

Cool. The problem with Jacobs wedges is that they don't last for more than a few removals until the bend or brake.
How did the heat treatment work in keeping your wedges straight? Did you use them more than once?

I got them hard enough that a file skates across the surfaces without leaving a mark. Absolutely no bend or dings when using them--Jack

 

[EmilioG]

I got them hard enough that a file skates across the surfaces without leaving a mark. Absolutely no bend or dings when using them--Jack

How did you heat treat? Could you explain in detail your procedure?
Thanks

 

[mikey]

That is how Royal removes the arbor from their 1 piece chucks. The knurled ring on the integral chuck is removed with a bearing separator.
You just need the correct size. A small one. The Albrecht removal tool is handy because you can remove the chuck from it's arbor while on the machine.,
otherwise, it could be held in a vise with a wood block or aluminum clamp. I did it this way once using a piece of mahogany, with the arbor in the wood block held with a vise. The wood blocks work just as well as aluminum. As long as your arbor has a shoulder. Only Jacobs chucks that have a pre-existing hole or pre drilled body hole
can be punched out. And let's not forget the appropriate arbor press. The other way is of course, a side drilled hole for a pin to create a shoulder for a removal tool.

Thanks, Emilio. I'll remember your advice. Stuck arbors is a pet peeve of mine.

 

[coffmajt]

How did you heat treat? Could you explain in detail your procedure?
Thanks

With any chrome moly based steel I use my ox-act torch to heat the material (supported on firebrick) to a red-orange color (looking for more than 1800F) and then drop the hot piece into a oil bath (old 30w motor oil seems to work OK) for quenching. Once it is cool, I clean the part with 220 grit shop abrasive cloth till it is somewhat clean, then use the torch to carefully reheat it until I see a straw color developing, then back in the oil. I try for a 400F to 500F temper to increase the toughness of the material that has just been quenched. This has worked well for me so long as the part is not so massive that distortion will become a concern. == Jack

 

[EmilioG]

Thanks. Have you done any inspection of the HT parts before and after? I'd be curious to know if the heated parts still retain their shape and size.
If the part has a hole, I imagine that you can use pin gages. Thank you for sharing your process.

 

[JimDawson]

Thanks. Have done any inspection of the HT parts before and after? I'd be curious to know if the heated parts still retain their shape and size.
If the part has a hole, I imagine that you can use pin gages. Thank you for sharing your process.

It really depends on the material. Some steels will grow a thou or two per inch, some retain their size very well. D2 will grow a bit and the holes get a bit tighter, but A2 and O1 are pretty stable.