Mill Clamps...which?

Thank you. Mike and anyone else that want to make Albrecht removal tools, I own all three and I can post the dimensions/images.
The Albrecht Tools to remove their chucks are really beefy. I couldn't believe how easy it was to remove my Albrecht 16mm keyless chuck
from it's R8 arbor. Not sure what type of steel they use. They don't appear to be heat treated. There are 3 Albrecht tools that cover 5 J and B
sizes. The smallest, only has one side, JT 0.

Making an Albrecht style removal tool for Jacobs J3 would be a good idea. Home GE heat treatment is prefect for these tools, although it may not be necessary
with the right steel. O1 tool steel would be prefect, but it's expensive. 1018 should work.

Clamps: I read somewhere that BP mill tables can use metric size T nuts. I'd like to make a few T nuts with a 5/16"-18 tapped hole
to hold my 1 2 3 blocks down to a BP mill table. I use a BP mill at work, so I'll check the dimensions again. I bought two Morton
adjustable clamps in good shape recently for $25.00 that included a bunch of TeCo hardware. Since my workplace has several Teco kits,
I never purchased these clamps, but there is a mill in my future, so I'm shopping for a clamp set.
 
Mike, do you have dimensions for JT33 arbor wedges? Regardless, I would like to see how yours are designed...
 
I think it's cheaper to buy Jacobs wedges than make, not sure, never made them. I would use better steel and heat treat jacobs style wedges.
By there very design, (Jacobs), wedges have long thin "prong" like forks, that by themselves, are prone to bending. I believe, an Albrecht style
tool would last forever in JT3. There is no JT3 Albrecht. Because of the super narrow space between a Jacobs chuck and certain arbors, thin wedges
would be needed or, in some cases, a through hole for pin, for arbors that don't have a shoulder.
 
Bob Korves said:
Mike, do you have dimensions for JT33 arbor wedges? Regardless, I would like to see how yours are designed...
Click to expand...

Sorry, Bob, I do not have the dimensions. I also do not have any more wedges in my shop - they are in the appropriate place - the landfill. I'm liking Emilio's recommendation for the Albrecht pry bars. Next time I need one I'll ask him for the dimensions and make them.
 
darkzero said:
Awe man, now I just might have to buy the set. Going to wait till Moday though in case Zoro has a 30% sale for St. Patrick's day like last year. Crap I'm not supposed to spend anymore money this month. I have stop coming here. :dejected:
Click to expand...

You do realize that this almost nails the diagnosis of Machinist OCD, right? If your favorite T-shirt says,
"He who dies with the most toys, wins", then the diagnosis is confirmed!
 
at 1:10 the video shows ID and OD of all Jacobs wedges.
I have all 4 Jacobs wedge sets somewhere in a box. I rarely use them., having all the drill chucks that I wanted.

 
I needed to tear down a used Albrecht chuck I got off e-bay for a good price, so I measured the space between the arbor and the chuck and made a pair of wedges to fit from some 4340 steel barstock I had on hand. Did a heat treat with oil quench and temper, and they worked perfectly. PS - I watched Tom Liptons you tube on servicing an Albrecht chuck, pipe wrench and all, and now have a perfectly smooth operating chuck where it felt horrible before (someone had soaked it in oil which does not work ) -- Good luck == Jack
 
Cool. The problem with Jacobs wedges is that they don't last for more than a few removals until the bend or brake.
How did the heat treatment work in keeping your wedges straight? Did you use them more than once?
 
Tell you what - the next time I need to pop an arbor out of an Albrecht chuck, I'm going to use my bearing separator. One of the guys on the MachinistsBlog site suggested it and I think it might work better than wedges. Worth a try, mostly because I already have the separator.
 
I don't even care about saving the arbors anymore, for the stubborn ones like the last one I had to remove on my Bison drill chuck, I just cut the arbor down some, thread a decent size hole on the end, make a sleeve slightly longer than the shortened arbor, slip it over the arbor to seat against the chuck body, make a washer to fit the sleeve's OD, screw in a bolt into the arbor, pulls the arbor out without having to say a single cuss word

(I know there should have been some periods in there somewhere so I didn't even bother to put one at the end :p)
 
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