- Joined
- Nov 21, 2021
- Messages
- 40
You might like to try my online program for calculating gear trains instead of the Little Machine Shop Version. It is RideTheGearTrain dot com.
Regarding the use of a dial indicator for threading: I have one, but never use it. Instead I have modified my Boxford A lathe by installing a DC variable speed reversible motor. This allows me to speed up while cutting a thread, but slowing right down as I approach the end, and stopping precisely where I need to. Then take note of the depth of cut I am using, withdraw the tool, and put the motor into reverse to return past the beginning of the thread. Then stop and change the motor direction to forwards. Advance the tool to the next depth. Start cutting slowly and if it looks good speed up. "Rince and Repeat" until you get to the required depth. After reversing and switching to forwards motion there is a possibility that backlash in the gears can cause the tool to be in the wrong position until the backlash is taken up. So start the forward motion some distance before it actually hits the thread you are cutting. You can encourage it by applying a little hand friction to the big wheel on the apron as it starts the forward motion. With this system I never disengage the half-nuts. This saves a lot of thinking about dials and possibility of making errors. I love this method and never use the dial. I developed this method because if you are cutting a metric thread on an imperial lathe (or vice versa) you cannot use the dial indicator anyway. My Youtube channel @evan-e-cent has videos about this method and how to install a DC motor, and others about how to calculate gear trains and metric to imperial conversion gears etc over 60 videos.
Regarding the use of a dial indicator for threading: I have one, but never use it. Instead I have modified my Boxford A lathe by installing a DC variable speed reversible motor. This allows me to speed up while cutting a thread, but slowing right down as I approach the end, and stopping precisely where I need to. Then take note of the depth of cut I am using, withdraw the tool, and put the motor into reverse to return past the beginning of the thread. Then stop and change the motor direction to forwards. Advance the tool to the next depth. Start cutting slowly and if it looks good speed up. "Rince and Repeat" until you get to the required depth. After reversing and switching to forwards motion there is a possibility that backlash in the gears can cause the tool to be in the wrong position until the backlash is taken up. So start the forward motion some distance before it actually hits the thread you are cutting. You can encourage it by applying a little hand friction to the big wheel on the apron as it starts the forward motion. With this system I never disengage the half-nuts. This saves a lot of thinking about dials and possibility of making errors. I love this method and never use the dial. I developed this method because if you are cutting a metric thread on an imperial lathe (or vice versa) you cannot use the dial indicator anyway. My Youtube channel @evan-e-cent has videos about this method and how to install a DC motor, and others about how to calculate gear trains and metric to imperial conversion gears etc over 60 videos.
