Mattsson & Zetterlund VF600 Restoration

[FOMOGO]

Nice little mill, and great job getting it cleaned up. What you call jeweling, I've always known as engine turning. A rose by any other name. Cheers, Mike

 

[Red Baron FC]

Nice little mill, and great job getting it cleaned up. What you call jeweling, I've always known as engine turning. A rose by any other name. Cheers, Mike

English is not my mother tongue, so, excuse me if I use wrong words. I remember when I was try to found correct word to type it in google, to find how to do that. Good for language practising I found this type of work call swirl too. Whatsoever, I think it is nice way to mask dents and scratches. Another reason to do this is merely an exercise in this type of work.

 

[Red Baron FC]

Today was perfect day for little activity in workshop. I was scraped all paint and some putty from base using old chisel. I took me about six hours to complete the job. Great activity for stress relief plus exercise in sharpening chisel. Who could ask more from saturday. The reason behind this work is many places where putty was pop up from cast iron, manifesting as little cracks in paint, looking just like when a small rock hit a glass on car. It can be seen on fifth picture. Those places where putty was pop up are white on pictures, there was left only a base paint on metal. Dark grey is where old putty is good enough to stay in place. Grey pile of something is what was scraped off. Weight about 1,5kg.

Now, in the next few days I will prepare the base for paint. I have no compressor nor ability to move the base somewhere to paint it, so I plan to paint it with brush. I see people paint restored machines with all sort of paint. My plan is to use enamel paint, but I will like to hear some advice on this. Is it a god choice or not. Do you suggest something else? The color will be pure white or RAL 7035 although RAL 7035 looking to me to dark either.

 

[middle.road]

English is not my mother tongue, so, excuse me if I use wrong words. I remember when I was try to found correct word to type it in google, to find how to do that. Good for language practising I found this type of work call swirl too. Whatsoever, I think it is nice way to mask dents and scratches. Another reason to do this is merely an exercise in this type of work.

You're doing fine so far, no problem.
It is cool to see what other folks in other parts of the world have in their shops.

 

[Red Baron FC]

Hello again. After some flu sickness and holidays I was a little busy. I done some body work with a polyester filler, shown on a first picture. After sanding I was spray a two layers of primer. That was yesterday. Almost whole base is good, but there are spots where thing are not good. I show those spots on next two pictures. When I was scratched those spots with finger nail or sharp object I was get result as on fourth picture. Been intrigued with those errors, I was decided to be a little more aggressive, so I get a result shown on last picture.

Now, silver zone surrounded by green line are bare metal from casting. On top of that there is a light yellow and light grey zone surrounded by red line that was left after pretty aggressive scratch attempt, having, obviously a god bonding. Light yellow thing is polyester filler and light grey thing is primer. Dark yellow thing surrounded with brown line at the top of the picture is old putty-filler that goes on bare metal casting, on top of that goes dark grey thing surrounded by blue line which is also some kind of putty.

So, I guess I have a problem with new polyester filler to old dark grey filler bonding, but, those errors are not massive. So, at this particular moment I contemplate about what to do. Sandblast whole thing would be a good solution, but I do not have ability to do that. To make just a correction where errors is shown is another solution, but there is no guarantee that there is a good bonding where errors are not shown. Bonding is maybe just good enough to not show errors, but not good enough as it should be. Last but not least, I can redo the whole base, but, the previous question will remain, how to be sure that I have a god bonding between old putty-filler and new polyester filler?

Any suggestion?

 

[markba633csi]

Hi Red Baron- I think the filler will adhere well, I would not worry- just do spot fills, sand and paint
Nice machine
mark

 

[Red Baron FC]

I was a little busy Pictures show saddle before and after cleaning. Only the lubricating nipple was changed. These have M6 straight thread versus DIN71412 that has M6 tapered thread. All ways are more or less wear, so, at this stage, it became mainly cleaning-painting-lubricating, bearing and small parts replacement project. The reason for this is that currently, I do not have the necessary skills to scrape the ways.

 

[Red Baron FC]

For lubricating, I use one of this, with epoxy glue in the hole at the bottom. It costs me less than 10 euro. The idea for this a get from Stuart de Haro.
Video can be watched from

 

[Red Baron FC]

Now, about lubricating, Service Manual calls for Gulf Harmony 53, basically for everything except gear and spindle. There should be used EP2 grease. I am attaching relevant pages from Manual, so, if someone here knows Swedish I will appreciate help in translation these pages. What was intrigued me is that Gulf Harmony 53 is essentially a Hydraulic oil, even for ways it recommends the same hydraulic oil and not a way oil, which is perfect to me, but some kind unusual.

 

[Red Baron FC]

Finally, the machine at their place leveled with base, chip tray, and column. I am very happy.