Making some screw less vise hold downs

Good point on the swarf trap. Well that makes it even easier, I guess. And maybe stronger. Oh well, don't get to use my counter-bore tool. Haven't used it since I bought the set! I bought them since I was doing a lot of counter-boring for a while. I didn't have the right size end mills so the counter-bores looked wrong.

From the bottom of the vise to the bottom of the slot is 12 mm, not 10 mm, so I do need to add a little bit. Think I'll practice on a piece of 6061. Don't have any 1x1 steel stock at the moment. I just sliced off a piece from some 1" thick 6061 stock. Faced off the sides. I'll rough machine it to make a prototype. See if there's any gotchas that I hadn't envisioned. Came up to grab my mic that I left at my computer desk.
 
Save for putting a radius on the nubbin, the prototype is good. Don't have any radius end mills. Might make the section that goes in the slot be 0.050 thicker. Even if it's 0.375" thick, it's sloping towards the vise which is good. Found that a 1.25" bolt with a washer works, just barely making 3 threads. Now the long wait (a week I hope) for tooling and some steel. In the mean time, have to scrounge up some hex head bolts, I know I have some squirreled away...
PXL_20210121_014133547.jpgPXL_20210121_014314792.jpg
 
Version 2, in A36 steel done! Made the piece that inserts in the slot a little thicker to make it stronger. Only bad thing about working with steel is getting lots of splinters. The radiused carbide mill had no problem with the A36 and left a pretty good finish. Still need to get some regular hex head bolts. My stash only had 3 long hex heads, which I didn't want to cut down. Have to order some 1.25" bolts.

I went through this effort because I've been getting jaw lift on my regular vise. It was hard to square the pieces. Over 2.5 thousands of lift. On this screwless vise, I get 0 lift at the fixed jaw and maybe 0.0004" at the movable jaw if I really crank it down. Stefan Gotteswinter was right, the vises are made out of rubber. It was really interesting to measure the lift.
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Have to say I am pleased how they came out. The machining gods were not quite as happy and rewarded me with a nice gash in my thumb when I was deburring the pieces. Must of been those earlier cuss words during the day...
 
Good job, Wobbly! Sorry about your thumb. Burrs are surprisingly lethal.

Tom
 
Thanks. The steel splinter in my fingertip hurts worse. Went in deep and probably broke off. Can't see it with an 8X magnifier. I know it's there...

For my thumb, it wasn't the burr that got me, but the deburring tool slipped off the edge off the part and into the skin just below my cuticle. I was surprised how much it bled. Washed the thumb, slathered with antibiotic and bandaged it. Thumb doesn't hurt at all.
 
Old thread, but whats wrong with deburring with a file, been doing it for 30 yrs. Only ever use a noga type on round holes.
 
fitterman1 said:
Old thread, but whats wrong with deburring with a file, been doing it for 30 yrs. Only ever use a noga type on round holes.
Click to expand...
Nothing is wrong with using a file. I just happened to pick up what was nearby. Files work fine, deburring tools are handy for somethings. Love the Noga deburring tools for round holes.

Was interesting to re-read this old thread. I've learned a bit in the past year and a half. As usual, everyone on HM has been a great help.
 
fitterman1 said:
Old thread, but whats wrong with deburring with a file, been doing it for 30 yrs. Only ever use a noga type on round holes.
Click to expand...
Nothing wrong with a file, nobody said there was, but whoever dies with the most tools wins. ;)
 
I would consider making the heel of the clamp slightly smaller than the width of the tee slot. Then make this end go all the way to the bottom of the tee slot so you don't bruise the bed.
Please see the video at:
0.11 Top left shows one clamp on it's side
0.41 + 0.49 Show the clamp in the tee slot with the heel going to the base of the tee slot.
 
Parlo said:
I would consider making the heel of the clamp slightly smaller than the width of the tee slot. Then make this end go all the way to the bottom of the tee slot so you don't bruise the bed.
Please see the video at:
0.11 Top left shows one clamp on it's side
0.41 + 0.49 Show the clamp in the tee slot with the heel going to the base of the tee slot.
Click to expand...
Good idea. Found that out the hard way. Now just using scraps of aluminum or steel as a shim under the rounded part, works fine.
 
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