Made a contraption

Gain two inches of vertical, sneak a piece of 1/4" over thr top of the beam, secure the back end with two or three grade 8 3/8 cap screws through the beam tapped into the plate, and tie a much heavier turnbuckle to the front if the plate.
 
^ If there’s clearance between the beam and the ceiling, that would be a big improvement.
 
You could also drop the pivot point at the end by four or more inches and use a clevis to straddle you beam. Alternatively, use two cables, on on each side. What ever you do to increase the angle between the cable and the beam will be beneficial.
Something like this but longer:

I would also use welded eyes, preferably ones rated for side loads.
 
The S hook on the end is a temporary solution to see how it acts, The turn buckle needs to be up sized for sure. The working load for 1/4" SS S hook should be in the realm of working, but I do not have that figure.
 
mmcmdl said:
Another easy option Mike would be go out and get yourself a die cart . It'll hold more weight than the rolling cart and can be lifted/ lowered for the mill table height . They are easy to move also . We use these in at work as you've seen in my pics I've sent you . Ask my former nightshift partner about his light duty crane experience . Dropped a 1300 lb. die onto the floor when one of the eye bolts stripped out and snapped the chain. It made a loud bang . :oops:
Click to expand...

My small hydraulic table is one of the most used things in the shop. They're great for what you mentioned along with unloading the truck and putting heavy things on shelves.They don't take up much room either.
 
I have not seen any available locally:(
 
Contraption 2.0
The turnbuckle, is now 3/8, the eye on both sides is through bolted 3/8, and the cable is now doubled. The hoist is mounted, and working. My question now is what lift points for the Kurt, and the 8" rotary table. Is it safe to lift the table by a T slot like in the picture?

 
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