Looking for a suggestion for gear oil for the headstock of a lathe...

It's the extreme pressure additives . Don't use it in Radicons , a brand name of right angle worm drive reducers much like using Kleenex for facial tissue . I don't know how many times I've had to tell guys that. The science of lubrication is long and complicated , it was pain to study . Every oil company seems to have their own names for various oils to add to the confusion. That's why using 80-140 synthetic differential makes life simple. In spite of the higher numbers , it's right weight. You want the good stuff, the cheap stuff may have EP additives.
 
Lathe gear heads do not have high pressure gearing. The most common high pressure gearing is hypoid automotive differential gears. Lathe gearboxes have no hypoid gearing, they just need to be lubricated, and the oil changed at intervals to get the crud out. "Getting fancy" is often getting stupid with lubricants.
 
WOW. Lots of info. The oil in the new machine is very good looking, for a 13 year old lathe. It looks like it has never been used, much. My owners manual doesn't specify any oil weights, just intervals for changing it!

BTW in the winter I run my machines at about 7C (45 degrees F), so I really think ISO 32 is the max I can get away with...

I agree with the above, that simpler is better. I will be careful to check about the yellow metals problem.

Petertha , I should have a look at your user's manual some time... Perhaps when we get together next!

Thanks for all your help and support!
 
Thanks, ddickey - I should have done a search before posting, but it is nice to have some of the new links on HP additives, etc!
 
Downwind, I've been talking with technical staff for lubricants for two days now. Some of the above comments are reflected in the warnings from professionals in the lube field. I'd need to know the exact product you found that doesn't eat brass.

-It seems that diff oil has two problems in the headstock of a lathe. One is that they contain additives that increase the friction on the gear, while reducing the wear on the gear. This is because the relative speed of the gears is very low, and there is sliding friction on the hypoid gears, Since our headstocks are spur gears, it is a different speed/friction profile.

Second. a lot of them, but but not all of them, have 'free sulfer' EP additives, which can deteriorate the bronze bushings in the heastock. The additives make a 'soap' under pressure that protects the gears and reduces friction. (yes and they add stuff to restore that friction - I don't know why)
 
We used SWEPCO brand on our big wire drawing machine. It was a moly added oil. The company got the change over paid with a Power Smart program. That much of a power saving. This machine had worm and wheel (brass)reduction. Someone in eastern US got a great machine. Surprisingly the oil had labeling as a differential oil. I use Lucas. Someone on the net recommended it as it didn't eat brass.( I know) I can get it locally in US quarts at the auto parts without going into Vancouver and buying a pail . Check out Lucas.
 
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Hmmm. It would be useful to know the Lucas Product Code for a reference. I found a Shell lubicant I can get locally, and I need 6 litres, so it is cheaper by the 5gal bucket. I can use it in my bandsaw that is due for a rebuild Very Soon Now. I'll post the Shell number as soon as I'm sure it is the right one.
 
I found out from the actual importer of my lathe top use AW 32 Hydraulic oil in both the headstock and the apron/crossslide.

Problem solved. Thanks for all your help! (and nice call for all those who had it right the first time!)
 
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