-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
Long way around...
- Thread starter RossB
- Start date
Here's where things got a little sideways. I squared up the fixture and clamped it down. I ran the dial indicator over the surface and found it to be a few thousandths higher on the ends.
Then I grabbed the largest, newest end mill that i own.
Then I grabbed the largest, newest end mill that i own.
I found the lowest part on the table, set the quill height accordingly, and then started making passes from the edge. I'm a rank amateur and this is the first time I've ever tried to clean up a flat surface. It didn't go as well as I had hoped it would.
I made the mistake of asking a question on a Facebook machinist group and received like 150 recommendations. Oddly enough, almost none of the advice was the same. It was all over the place from "your mill is junk" to "you can't do anything without a power feed" to "youre using the wrong tool" (probably) to "pay someone to do it". I suspect that it's a combination of not the ideal mill, potentially the wrong speed, and not clearing the chips away which allowed them to get sucked under the mill and score the plate.
Despite the looks, the machined surface is pretty flat and the low spot isn't too problematic.
I made the mistake of asking a question on a Facebook machinist group and received like 150 recommendations. Oddly enough, almost none of the advice was the same. It was all over the place from "your mill is junk" to "you can't do anything without a power feed" to "youre using the wrong tool" (probably) to "pay someone to do it". I suspect that it's a combination of not the ideal mill, potentially the wrong speed, and not clearing the chips away which allowed them to get sucked under the mill and score the plate.
Despite the looks, the machined surface is pretty flat and the low spot isn't too problematic.
I decided to.leave it alone for the time being and I ordered a 2.5" face mill with carbide inserts. Maybe I'll have better luck there. Another $90 on top of the $50 for material and I'm a little bit suspect of the pedigree of this tool.
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2014
- Messages
- 9,616
Fantastic vehicle!
Amazing rotary table.
Great idea for the sub-table or lift-table. (Your welds look fine from here.)
Personally I would use a fly cutter and hand ground HSS lathe tool bit.
I have had good results with that......
-brino
Amazing rotary table.
Great idea for the sub-table or lift-table. (Your welds look fine from here.)
Personally I would use a fly cutter and hand ground HSS lathe tool bit.
I have had good results with that......
-brino
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2014
- Messages
- 1,157
The RT is a very nice piece of kit. I have the equivalent offering from Maho - looks very, very similar (same mounting issue you have). I use the RT on my knee mill, by only using two of the bolts and removed the index plate & crank handle.
A nice looking stand you have made. Take care, David
A nice looking stand you have made. Take care, David
This is going to be epic. You spend the money and time and we watch for free.
I've never used a fly cutter. I think I have one, but the HSS tool looked suspect and, while I have lots of blanks, I have no idea how to grind them to shape.
While waiting for the face cutter tool to come in, I decided to square up all the other edges of my adapter and to mill the slots for the RT.
I squared up the bottom plate by removing one clamp at a time, milling the portuin of the edge that was obstructed, and then reinstalling the clamp.
I squared up the bottom plate by removing one clamp at a time, milling the portuin of the edge that was obstructed, and then reinstalling the clamp.