Little mods making things better. (And other Stuff!)

Won't that make the MT1 arbor have to go deeper?

If the existing tail-stock ram internal taper is just slightly galled from something spinning, it likely only has a few rings around the internal surface.
That means a tool will only be touching those high spots, it won't have much friction and can spin again easily.
A taper reamer can be used lightly to just remove the high spots to clean up the taper for a much better fit.

Unless the internal taper is really messed-up you won't be cutting much material.

-brino
 
If you only use the reamer to knock off the high spots, as far as any male taper is concerned, you will have returned the taper to its original dimensions, not made it deeper. That is what you should shoot for.
 
Mounted the new/old 1/2 hp motor this morning and everything runs fine. The belt does not rub on the motor but just the same I put some foil air-conditioning ductwork tape on top of the motor just in case. Don't know if anyone else does the same for a swarf pan as I did. Went to the auto parts store and bought a garage oil drip pan for $10 to mount everything on. I also found a cafeteria tray that I cut couple inches off one end to catch most all the chips that fall. Think I might paint the tailstock blue to counterbalance the blue motor color. Who knows, "One day I might actually try and make something!" It's kinda like getting all dressed up and nowhere to go if you know what I mean! Couple more pics just to keep it visually interesting.
 

Attachments

  • 20211116_134610.jpg
    20211116_134610.jpg
    3.1 MB · Views: 90
  • 20211116_134557.jpg
    20211116_134557.jpg
    3.1 MB · Views: 92
Last edited:
Who knows, "One day I might actually try and make something!" It's kinda like getting all dressed up and nowhere to go if you know what I mean!

That lathe and chip-pan do look too clean! ;)
-brino
 
That lathe and chip-pan do look too clean! ;)
-brino
Pretty much done with the "shake down" to make it as best as it can be for a 74 year old lathe. Now all I have to do is find a little project that is worthy of my unworthy machine skills! The first thing I want to learn is how to make a proper threat of different pitches and tpi's. I have a set of metal change gears on order and should be here in the next day or two. I know that sounds like a basic skill but something I want to learn.
 
Last edited:
Very nice project. You may find a need for a back splash. Cutting oil tends to fly and so do metal chips. Maybe I'm just sloppy.
 
You may find a need for a back splash. Cutting oil tends to fly and so do metal chips. Maybe I'm just sloppy.
The wall behind my lathe certainly agrees with you! That's definitely on my list of potential projects...
 
Two points -
(1) Mounting the countershaft behind the bed and the motor behind the countershaft per the factory instructions will have two and possibly three benefits. (1) The belts will be shorter and therefore less expensive. (2) Belt vibration problems will be reduced. (3) The overall footprint of the machine will be about half of what it ended up.

(2) If the A/C aluminum tape keeps chips from getting into the ventilation holes in the motor, it will also keep the heat build-up inside of the motor, potentially causing an early failure due to fried stator windings. One workaround is to form/bend an aluminum or steel plate to a radius about 1/2" greater than the stator radius and a little longer than the motor. Or a better solution would be to start with a TEFC motor. And build a duct for the fan to work through.
 
If the existing tail-stock ram internal taper is just slightly galled from something spinning, it likely only has a few rings around the internal surface.
That means a tool will only be touching those high spots, it won't have much friction and can spin again easily.
A taper reamer can be used lightly to just remove the high spots to clean up the taper for a much better fit.
Unless the internal taper is really messed-up you won't be cutting much material.
-brino
It tightens up fine for using a drill chuck on MT1 arbor. Only saw it was a problem when using a tap and used hand tapping workaround. So it's really not that big a problem. There so many sizes of MT1, diameter and length, that it's hard to decide which one to purchase. I thought an MT! is one size but found out that's not so. I used a round steel brush on a drill to clean inside the ram/spindle for any residue that might be gumming up the inside. I guess I'm just worrying about something that doesn't need to be worrying about at this time. Large drill bits may present a problem in any future use.
 
Back
Top