Little mods making things better. (And other Stuff!)

[LX Kid]

These are "no big deal" mods but have made things a little easier "for me!" First I removed the dial indicator and compound slide screw housing off and milled both. Used 1000 grit to micro polish both mate surfaces and now no binding when turned. They both showed a lot of wear and grooving on the surfaces. Got rid of the nut on top of the QCTP and replaced it with a larger nut that didn't have that bevel at the bottom. Now the wrench doesn't fall off when you want it to stay on. I put a knurled "big dong" on the compound slide screw instead of that tiny little handle. Now I can "palm" movement quickly or use fingers for minor adjustment.

 

[Mini Cooper S]

Nice, I'll have to try that!
Richard

 

[MrWhoopee]

With apologies to Bob Marley:

"Rise up this mornin'
Smile with the risin' sun
Three little mods
Upon my workbench"

 

[LX Kid]

I happen to go into a small storage, in back my of shop, looking for some paint thinner and found a Craftsman 1/2 hp 1725 rpm motor I forgot that I had. I've only a 1/3 hp 1725 rpm now and have been shopping around for at least a 1/2 hp on Craigslist and everyone thinks their used motors are gold plated. I plugged it in and it works fine. Took everything apart, painted and waiting for the paint to dry before assembly. Oh and another plus is it has a pulley on it.

 

[LX Kid]

Anyone got any ideas on how to tighten up my tailstock piston so it will hold the MT1 better? Used a tap to make the "big dong" and it wanted to slip so I had to use hand method utilizing the ways.

 

[wa5cab]

Most likely problem is that at some time in the past, someone had something spin in the tailstock ram and galled the surface. In order to fix it, you will have to invest in a good quality 1MT reamer.

 

[LX Kid]

Most likely problem is that at some time in the past, someone had something spin in the tailstock ram and galled the surface. In order to fix it, you will have to invest in a good quality 1MT reamer.

Well I found out the make several sizes of #1MT reamers. 23/64", .2465 7" long, .2488 3" long, .2676" etc. I'm guessing I have to have a length that will not be longer that the spindle or it would not work properly. Won't that make the MT1 arbor have to go deeper? Guess I need to measure my spindle opening and get one that is same so that I don't go oversize. If I go oversize them the MT! will go deep and the drill chuck will be up against the spindle mouth and never tighten up.

Anyone heard of a spindle that is longer in length to help with drilling and other functions. Seems like the spindles are so short!

 

[wa5cab]

What are you calling the "spindle"? If you mean the tailstock ram, AFAIK Atlas only made the one size. Also, making the ram longer won't give you any more travel. You would also have to lengthen the tailstock and the drive screw. Which would of course decrease the maximum distance between centers unless you made a longer bed and lead screw. Or you can buy a 9", 10" or 12" lathe.

 

[LX Kid]

What are you calling the "spindle"? If you mean the tailstock ram, AFAIK Atlas only made the one size.

I just measured the mouth of the ram/spindle and it measures .462" and am thinking of just leaving it alone. If I mess it up I'd never find another ram/spindle and this one does ok with drill bits. Taps is another story.

 

[LX Kid]

Must have done something right! Put the motor back together and rewired it to turn CW and it still runs fine! Go figure.