You could file the keyway, it only needs clearance. Only critical dimension for the spacer is length and if it's on the leadscrew input shaft, only one keyway required.I have quite a few 20’s and could use one but I think I’ll just turn one and get my mate to spark erode the keyway. The 24 does indeed look like the 24 without its teeth but as it didn’t look like Zamak I dismissed it.
Not quite correct. The spacer circumference is critical too as there is no room to use a 20/64 in the final position at the 64t screw gear as the spacer behind it fouls on the rearmost 64 compound by a few mm. I need to either make a new spacer for the end of the Screw or turn down my 24 spacer to allow clearance. I’ll try and take a pic later.You could file the keyway, it only needs clearance. Only critical dimension for the spacer is length and if it's on the leadscrew input shaft, only one keyway required.
Couldn't see any bend/misalignment until I tried the input shaft in the full journal backwards, around 3mm/.120" off centre at the half journal. Prior to repair, very difficult to switch from one direction to other. Now, smooth as silk. A fairly agricultural repair to say the least, only measured by a rule, maybe got it under .5mm/.020".
Made a huge improvement to operation.
Yes, insert backwards, eyeball from r/h end.Not quite correct. The spacer circumference is critical too as there is no room to use a 20/64 in the final position at the 64t screw gear as the spacer behind it fouls on the rearmost 64 compound by a few mm. I need to either make a new spacer for the end of the Screw or turn down my 24 spacer to allow clearance. I’ll try and take a pic later.
Very interesting @timmeh I’ll be sure to remove it when I replace my sliding collar yoke and check it for runout. I take it you are describing the LH side stub shaft which carries the screw (item 9-52A Stub below?)
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