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Lathe Mounting on Existing Bench
- Thread starter rronald
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- Joined
- Apr 7, 2018
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- 143
I took a different approach, one that emphasizes an easy ability to remove the dreaded twist. Mine is a PM-1030V and I mounted it to two 3/8" steel plates using 1/2-13 bolts and the existing mount holes and terminate through the 2" maple bench top, one at each end of the lathe. The plates have leveling screws. I periodically check for a twist and correct it with the leveling screws. Takes 5 min.
Finally made it to the bench.
I suspect I'll be making something to allow easy leveling, but I don't think I want to make the lathe move more than a trivial amount above the bench top. The top is currently at 36". That seems about right. I don't think I want to go any higher and I suspect a leveling plate would need an inch (at least).
You can still see the outer lifting arrangement and the inner one. I took it up to benchtop height with the outers and then connected the inners. with both sets of slings connected, I gradually shifted the weight and the lathe moved over the bench.
I suspect I'll be making something to allow easy leveling, but I don't think I want to make the lathe move more than a trivial amount above the bench top. The top is currently at 36". That seems about right. I don't think I want to go any higher and I suspect a leveling plate would need an inch (at least).
You can still see the outer lifting arrangement and the inner one. I took it up to benchtop height with the outers and then connected the inners. with both sets of slings connected, I gradually shifted the weight and the lathe moved over the bench.
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A bit late to the party but here is my 2¢. My preference for machine stands is steel. Wood will expand and contract with humidity and can twist in some strange and unpredictable ways. But a solid wood bench would be preferable to a flimsy sheet steel stand.
I also believe that machines are usually built without a twist. The twist comes about by bolting them down to a surface which isn't flat. A solution to that is to not bolt the machine tightly to the surface. For a lathe, I would bolt down the headstock snugly; just enough to prevent it walking. The tailstock end could be left free or a restraining bolt added but tightened to the nut just barely touching the lathe. Double nut the bolts to prevent them from loosening in use. If your bench top isn't flat, inserting a hard rubber mat under the lathe feet can further isolate it from the bench.
In any case, I would check the lathe using the two collar test or Rollie's Dad's method. If it is determined that there is unacceptable taper, further action may be required. One solution for a wood bench would be to place a piece of heavy steel plate between the lathe and the bench. Lighty fasten the plate to the bench so it is free from distortions in the bench and drill and tap holes for mounting screws for the lathe. You can then use shims between the lathe and the plate to twist the lathe bed to correct for any taper.
I also believe that machines are usually built without a twist. The twist comes about by bolting them down to a surface which isn't flat. A solution to that is to not bolt the machine tightly to the surface. For a lathe, I would bolt down the headstock snugly; just enough to prevent it walking. The tailstock end could be left free or a restraining bolt added but tightened to the nut just barely touching the lathe. Double nut the bolts to prevent them from loosening in use. If your bench top isn't flat, inserting a hard rubber mat under the lathe feet can further isolate it from the bench.
In any case, I would check the lathe using the two collar test or Rollie's Dad's method. If it is determined that there is unacceptable taper, further action may be required. One solution for a wood bench would be to place a piece of heavy steel plate between the lathe and the bench. Lighty fasten the plate to the bench so it is free from distortions in the bench and drill and tap holes for mounting screws for the lathe. You can then use shims between the lathe and the plate to twist the lathe bed to correct for any taper.
I put 4 of 6 1/2" bolts in yesterday (3 in headstock, 1 in tailstock). But, the bolts were tough to get into place. And the last two refused.
So, I'm going to order some 7/16" and some 3/8" threaded rod for those last two.
I like the idea of just bolting the headstock down and then using "finger tight" on the tailstock so I can be sure I'm not twisting the bed. So I'll also remove my existing 1/2" bolt from the tailstock mounting plate and replace it with a 7/16". This will proved a slightly loose diameter fit and an absence of clamping force on the tailstock end.
I finally powered the lathe on this morning. Spindle, gears, and power carriages are alive.
So, I'm going to order some 7/16" and some 3/8" threaded rod for those last two.
I like the idea of just bolting the headstock down and then using "finger tight" on the tailstock so I can be sure I'm not twisting the bed. So I'll also remove my existing 1/2" bolt from the tailstock mounting plate and replace it with a 7/16". This will proved a slightly loose diameter fit and an absence of clamping force on the tailstock end.
I finally powered the lathe on this morning. Spindle, gears, and power carriages are alive.
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2023
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- 7
@rronald my lathe was delivered today
Curious how you handled the chip tray in your mounting, as the outside perimeter is about half an inch lower than the center.
One member posted his solution here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm-1130v-chip-tray-installation.103670/
Curious how you handled the chip tray in your mounting, as the outside perimeter is about half an inch lower than the center.
One member posted his solution here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm-1130v-chip-tray-installation.103670/
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- Feb 26, 2021
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If you have the wood, I'd make the raised section the entire size of the tray base (mounting surface.)
I found that thread by searching on "chip tray PM". Very helpful. I copied their approach of cutting wood pieces a little bigger than the feet on the lathe (about 1/2" bigger in x and y). I used 12mm ply since I had that at hand and it seemed the perfect height.
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