Lathe Building Questions

E

evergreenblue

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member
Hello everyone! So in looking for the best route in building a lathe, I came across some interesting plans over on one of the British websites. I've also come across some interesting advice, and they all lead me to a few questions.

1) Do any of you have a metric lead screw? Does a metric lead screw still allow you to cut unified threads, or does it just get close? Would it be worth the effort to change the plans (all metric) to a 10tpi acme lead screw?

2) Someone suggested the idea of using a ball lead screw if building a lathe, for more precision, and to withstand greater load. This looks like a major change and it looks difficult to install. Has anyone worked with these type of screws, and do you think it is worth the effort or cost?

3) The plans call for some parts that I just can't make without a lathe. Would it be more practical to pay for a local machinist to make them, or just order pre-made components and alter the plans to compensate? (i.e. spindles and bearing sleeve)

4) Last question (for now anyway!) What's the difference or benefit in deciding the taper to use in the headstock or tailstock? These plans have a 1MT headstock, and the tailstock is just a 1/2"-20 threaded spindle to accept "drill accessories".

I of course always appreciate the feedback! You guys have been very encouraging and helpful so far, and I thank you all! This is a great forum!

Dave
 
Dave,


Do you already own a lathe and intend to make this one as a way to hone your skills?


Ray
 
No, I don't own a lathe. In fact, I don't own any metal working tools yet, except for the sharpening tools for my woodworking tools. I was planning on using this to build up some skills and then have a lathe to end with, as it's mostly drilling, tapping, filing and cutting (of course, with the exception of the few turned parts). I figured it would be an interesting way to get into the hobby. I do have some minimal experience with an old south bend lathe and some other machine shop experience when I was in school, though it was mostly milling, and that was more CNC than manual.
 
Gotcha... Well, since you have some machining background, you probably have a reasonable idea of your expectations of the finished product and it's intended use.

I'm not familiar with anyone that's been really successful at doing this. Of course, success is measured in many ways... But many folks get into this and quickly realize they're spending 3 times the money of a new/used machine only to end-up with an inferior tool. -Indeed, there are some exceptions.

If you tell us what size machine you want to end-up with, maybe it will invoke more thoughts and suggestions. The only thing we have to go on is the mention of a 1MT headstock. Maybe it will help if you mention the kinds of projects you intend to use the lathe on.


Ray




evergreenblue said:
No, I don't own a lathe. In fact, I don't own any metal working tools yet, except for the sharpening tools for my woodworking tools. I was planning on using this to build up some skills and then have a lathe to end with, as it's mostly drilling, tapping, filing and cutting (of course, with the exception of the few turned parts). I figured it would be an interesting way to get into the hobby. I do have some minimal experience with an old south bend lathe and some other machine shop experience when I was in school, though it was mostly milling, and that was more CNC than manual.
Click to expand...
 
Well, the size I'm looking at is about 3.5-4x10-12. I don't really intend on doing too much with this to start, other than really getting some experience like I said. I was thinking though, that if I can get a plain lathe up and running, and adjust it to some ok tolerances, then I can always use it to improve upon it! I am kind of interested in just doing small projects, maybe little engines, but simple things to start. My experience really is minimal, although, I really enjoy learning. I imagine by the time I do get something up and running, and I do get into more elaborate projects, I'll have probably bought a lathe by then. I understand the cost wouldn't be necessarily cheap, but I figure a project like this will easily take me a couple years, especially competing with my other hobbies, so the cost should spread out a bit. On top of that, there is a lot of cost in just basic tools and such which will be spread out as needed as well. Anyway, the plans I'd like to emulate appear fairly simple, although I don't expect it too be easy in any way. It uses two bars for the ways, which lead me to another question. The author of the plans suggests using "silver steel" for the way bars, but I was wondering of hardened rod stock would be better? Anyhow, I hope my intentions help out with my questions.
 
OK, thanks for leveling with us. I was probing to verify you understood what you were getting into, to spare you of possible grief and frustration. I've often thought of doing something similar one day. I have a dedicated lathe-like device for tool post grinding in-mind.

It would be simple and the main components made of thick (1-2") aluminum. Thick aluminum is very strong and absorbs vibration almost as well as cast iron. The main components would be bolted together; thus, allowing fine adjustment of final positioning and alignment. The spindle would be driven by a flat belt and would have no thru-bore. The tail stock would have a fixed live center. The ways would hang off off arms from the bed... -Havent decided on the Way construction yet but, have some ideas in mind. The carriage would be simply pushed along by a store-bought acme rod driven by a low speed, high torque DC motor. I have most of the materials on-hand and estimate overall cost to be about $250.

... I do not know what "siver steel" is. I would look for rod that is TGP (Turned, Ground and Polshed). Go to www.speedymetals or www.onlinemetals and find the hardest metal (drill rod or alloy steel) in that condition.

If you need a piece of acme rod, it is sold by many places like Enco, Grainger etc...

Ray



evergreenblue said:
Well, the size I'm looking at is about 3.5-4x10-12. I don't really intend on doing too much with this to start, other than really getting some experience like I said. I was thinking though, that if I can get a plain lathe up and running, and adjust it to some ok tolerances, then I can always use it to improve upon it! I am kind of interested in just doing small projects, maybe little engines, but simple things to start. My experience really is minimal, although, I really enjoy learning. I imagine by the time I do get something up and running, and I do get into more elaborate projects, I'll have probably bought a lathe by then. I understand the cost wouldn't be necessarily cheap, but I figure a project like this will easily take me a couple years, especially competing with my other hobbies, so the cost should spread out a bit. On top of that, there is a lot of cost in just basic tools and such which will be spread out as needed as well. Anyway, the plans I'd like to emulate appear fairly simple, although I don't expect it too be easy in any way. It uses two bars for the ways, which lead me to another question. The author of the plans suggests using "silver steel" for the way bars, but I was wondering of hardened rod stock would be better? Anyhow, I hope my intentions help out with my questions.
Click to expand...
 
Their "Silver Steel" is what we call drill rod. Usually O1.

Personally, I think that the linear bearing rods, especially supported rods would make a lot of sense. You can pick them up pretty cheap on ebay.

The Gingerly books are a reasonable starting point. It is really a chicken and the egg type problem. Making a small lathe like that is not too bad but it would be much easier to build if you had a lathe to build it with. People do it but generally it is a work of love and not anything to save money. You are not going to be able to under price companies buying materials by the rail car and paying third world wages to put them together.



evergreenblue said:
Well, the size I'm looking at is about 3.5-4x10-12. I don't really intend on doing too much with this to start, other than really getting some experience like I said. I was thinking though, that if I can get a plain lathe up and running, and adjust it to some ok tolerances, then I can always use it to improve upon it! I am kind of interested in just doing small projects, maybe little engines, but simple things to start. My experience really is minimal, although, I really enjoy learning. I imagine by the time I do get something up and running, and I do get into more elaborate projects, I'll have probably bought a lathe by then. I understand the cost wouldn't be necessarily cheap, but I figure a project like this will easily take me a couple years, especially competing with my other hobbies, so the cost should spread out a bit. On top of that, there is a lot of cost in just basic tools and such which will be spread out as needed as well. Anyway, the plans I'd like to emulate appear fairly simple, although I don't expect it too be easy in any way. It uses two bars for the ways, which lead me to another question. The author of the plans suggests using "silver steel" for the way bars, but I was wondering of hardened rod stock would be better? Anyhow, I hope my intentions help out with my questions.
Click to expand...
 
Here's a scaled down Hardinge HLVH made over a period of 15 years by a German toolmaker. It also accepts watch lathe tailstocks he had on hand. I'd loved to have had this marvelous little lathe. He had to auction it off to pay medical expenses for a loved one. I think it went for 10% of what it should have,but still out of my price range,and really not a very practical machine except for very small parts.

Everything was machined from Dura Bar,no castings were made. He made numerous extra gears for the outboard end of the gearbox,for cutting threads not found on the QC gearbox.

IMG_0204.JPG IMG_0205.JPG IMG_0206.JPG IMG_0208.JPG
 
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