Lagunmatic CNC machine why not!

[JimDawson]

The power for the SD boards comes from the big transformer, through the bridge rectifier, and the large blue cap. What switches on the transformer may be a contactor or a solid state relay. Both are used depending on the manufacturer. The solid state relay, next to the fuse block, is probably what switches the transformer. You are going to have to trace some wires. Coming off of the cap, the red wires are positive, and the gray wires are negative. The SD boards are directly wired to the cap.

Remember when I suggested creating an I/O map of everything that is there now?


Not sure why you don't have 5V on the Kanalog board, is it powered up?

 

[jeepguy88]

Ok as far as the SD boards goes, thats starting to make sense. There is a SSR. I didnt see anything in the SD boards manual about what exactly was powering them or where it plugs into the board. I was going to try and double check the input is correct.

The KFlop powers the Kanalog? I have 5vDC and 12vDC to the Kflop. I thought Kflop powered Kanalog? Checked for 5volts on the Kanalog on JP8 where its says 5v and ground on JP6. I didnt see this or dont understand the Kanalog Connector page on the website

 

[JimDawson]

That's interesting, there does not seem to be any reference to what jumper powers up the SD board. But I think it's J5. Wherever the red and gray wires are connected is the power connection. I never bothered to look at mine. It's the bottom connector on the board.

From the Kanalog manual
''JP8 - FET Switch Outputs (relay drivers) - watchdog - power outputs

(4) +5V outputs are available to power low current (<100ma) external circuitry such as encoders. Normally +5V is applied to Kflop JR1 (4 pin white Molex connector) and passes through the ribbon connector to Kanalog. However it is also possible to feed +5V into the system via these terminals. If +5V power is fed into both Kflop and Kanalog the exact same +5V supply must be connected to both.''

It looks like you could grab the 5V encoder power and GND from anywhere that you have 5V as long as it's all the same power supply.

 

[jeepguy88]

That's interesting, there does not seem to be any reference to what jumper powers up the SD board. But I think it's J5. Wherever the red and gray wires are connected is the power connection. I never bothered to look at mine. It's the bottom connector on the board

Ok. Makes sense. Im kinda working backwards from the SD boards to my power switch. There seems to be a few relays inbetween that Im not sure about.

Kanalog, ah got it, 5v IN on the J8. I thought 5v in on KFLOP would be 5v out on the kanalog. I'll wire up the 5v for the encoders off the 5v powersupply for kflop

 

[Karl_T]

dunno if this is any help but I'll share my methods. I've done six or eight new controls depending on how you count. One of my first, I did pretty much as you are doing - tried to clean up an almost running control. I got it running then something would break and I was lost again. Spent WAY more time than starting over and still did not have something easy to maintain.


For power supplied to devices, all the supplies are in one corner of the enclosure. there will be a row of little fuses for each voltage, one per device. In the case of +5V a wire for the Kfllop numbered 105, a wire for the encoders numbered 106, etc. NO DAISY CHAINING ALLOWED. In my case I use red wire for all the +5 volt. I also keep a spreadsheet of each wire number, where it starts, and ends, and its function. Its not a EE print, but its easy to record as you go and plenty of info for years from now when something breaks.

 

[jeepguy88]

Well.... todays progress report.......
Im learning some kmotion software. Seems like the options are endless. Im not sure if poking around here or poking around the control panel wires makes my head hurt more....lol
I did remember that when the old controller was plugged in, and the power button was pressed, nothing would happen but a alarm kinda sound, unplug the Fagor controller and hit the power button, all the axis would start to move. Im getting the same thing going on now, If I unplug the J1 labeled connector from the servo drivers, press the power button, the fans kick on and the servos spin. Plug the J1 into the servo drivers, press the power button, no fan comes on,but power is applyed to the servos locking thier rotation, resulting in the high pitched alarm type sound Im hearing.
The only thing pluged in to J1 on the SD is Pin2 Signal input PIN3 Tach PIn 4 ground. Pin 2 is connected to JP11DAC#1 for X axis. PIn3 is connected to motor ground and JP11 ground on kanalog.

I dont think i have the encoders wired correctly . I have A+B+and I(Z). ON Kanalog JP1 A wired to A+1 B wired to B+1 and I wired to JP2 A4+ read on the kanalog connections web page Z was to be wired to JP2.
Pretty sure kmotion isnt seeing any encoder for any axis.

 

[JimDawson]

Well.... todays progress report.......
Im learning some kmotion software. Seems like the options are endless. Im not sure if poking around here or poking around the control panel wires makes my head hurt more....lol

I did remember that when the old controller was plugged in, and the power button was pressed, nothing would happen but a alarm kinda sound, unplug the Fagor controller and hit the power button, all the axis would start to move. Im getting the same thing going on now, If I unplug the J1 labeled connector from the servo drivers, press the power button, the fans kick on and the servos spin. Plug the J1 into the servo drivers, press the power button, no fan comes on,but power is applyed to the servos locking thier rotation, resulting in the high pitched alarm type sound Im hearing.

I don't understand why the fans don't come on under all conditions, but maybe there is an ''OK'' or ''Ready'' signal from the drive that is switching on the fan relay. I removed all of that type of original control wiring in mine, and replaced it with my own relays and switching. I turn the fans on with the same relay that fires up the servo power.

The high pitched sound is the PWM carrier frequency. I lucked out and don't have that noise on my mill. But the Shizuoka Z axis is really loud, and I've not been able to get rid of it, but the X & Y are fine. I suspect it's something ''loose'' in the motor.

The only thing pluged in to J1 on the SD is Pin2 Signal input PIN3 Tach PIn 4 ground. Pin 2 is connected to JP11DAC#1 for X axis. PIn3 is connected to motor ground and JP11 ground on kanalog

I assume by ''motor ground'' that you mean the tach signal ground on pin 3.

I dont think i have the encoders wired correctly . I have A+B+and I(Z). ON Kanalog JP1 A wired to A+1 B wired to B+1 and I wired to JP2 A4+ read on the kanalog connections web page Z was to be wired to JP2.
Pretty sure kmotion isnt seeing any encoder for any axis.

If everything is wired up correctly, with the SD power off and the kanalog powered up, you should be able to turn the motor by hand and the kanalog should read the encoder. Are you getting power to the encoders, and do you have the encoder 0V wire connected back to the 5V return (common or -)

We need to define ''ground'' a bit better here. When talking about signal wiring ''ground'' normally refers to 0V or a common return, rather than an earth ground. This can be a bit confusing when two different terminals are called ''ground'' In many cases the 0V may be connected to earth ground, but sometimes is left floating. A long as I have transformer isolation, I normally connect all of the 0V lines to earth ground.

In power wiring, in most cases ground means an earth ground.

 

[Karl_T]

I've found good standard (for me at least) wiring practices REALLY help on down the road when something breaks.

Always use white wire for DC common. All wires go back to the DC common terminal block. End up with more white wire than anything in the machine. In my case DC common is bonded to the machine in only one spot - near the terminal block.

Always use red wire for 5V and number every one at both ends, all power comes from individual fuses normally 0.1 amp.

I try to use +DC 24 volt for most logic. Its always a blue wire number on both ends and comes from a +24 volt fuse bank. They are in small groups - X and Y home and limits - Z home and limits - users panel buttons - etc.

I try to always use sourcing normally closed on all I O. ( some control computers may not permit this) But the point is to always do it the same. I like this cause a voltmeter can quickly check each and every input at the control to find or eliminate hardware issues.

I try real hard to use other wire colors for signals and keep them the same for similar functions - X home Y home Z home are all purple. +limits all brown, etc. These wires will all be numbered at both ends. I often use the terminal number on the control board as the wire number

I keep a spread sheet of every wire - color - number - ID of each end - function. I find this far easier than making a EE print cause you just do it as you go. And its plenty of notes for later when trouble comes.

Take the extra time at build pays HUGE dividends down the road.


I know some of this is redundant to my earlier post. I do think its important enough to repeat.

Karl

 

[Karl_T]

...

I dont think i have the encoders wired correctly . I have A+B+and I(Z). ON Kanalog JP1 A wired to A+1 B wired to B+1 and I wired to JP2 A4+ read on the kanalog connections web page Z was to be wired to JP2.
Pretty sure kmotion isnt seeing any encoder for any axis.

Get yourself a logic probe

Elenco Electronics Lp-560 Logic Probe Electronics Testing Tool - Circuit Testers - Amazon.com

Elenco Electronics Lp-560 Logic Probe Electronics Testing Tool - Circuit Testers - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

check for signal at the control.

 

[jeepguy88]

I really appreciate all the help. Im sure answering newbie questions gets old. Seems like on most of the other forums people run into more complicated problems further down the line, my step in this process should already be a known given.....lol

We need to define ''ground'' a bit better here. When talking about signal wiring ''ground'' normally refers to 0V or a common return, rather than an earth ground.

AH! yes, thats a problem I recognize now.

The only thing pluged in to J1 on the SD is Pin2 Signal input PIN3 Tach PIn 4 ground. Pin 2 is connected to JP11DAC#1 for X axis. PIn3 is connected to motor ground and JP11 ground on kanalog

That didnt come out correctly, let me rephrase and try again.
Pin2 on the SD is connected to JP11 terminal1
PIN3 on SD is Tach input, this is connected to the servo motor. I didnt touch
PIN4 on SD had 2 wires pluged in one going to what looks like the same location as the tach on pin3, the other, wire #2 looks like it goes to somewhere with the limit switches. I connected a 3rd wire here, PIN4 going to Ground on JP11. Ground to common problem here?

When the servo motor was making its noise it was applying voltage to both legs? At least thats what I measured on the bus bar.

Im going to work on the encoders today. I have do have the 5v negative wired to a ground when it looks like it should be wired to a 0v

Get yourself a logic probe

Done. I dont have that in my tool box and looks like it might be useful.

Seems like most of the wiring in the box is color coordinated. And Im trying to stay the same. So when Im done it lookes nice and clean and professional.