Knurling tool build

mikey said:
Finally had a chance to go through this thread, Robert, and I should have read it earlier. I use a very quick and easy method to hold the pins in my knurler that I actually got from Guy Lautard's First Bedside Reader.
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I just went looking for that book. It’s over $200 on Amazon!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, it was much cheaper when Guy Lautard was alive and publishing.
 
rwm said:
Not finished! The doggone axles rotate during use. Not a lot but I suspect it will be a problem over time. I also looked at the write up in Guy Latard's book. Damn shame 'cause I like the way it looks! There are a couple of options here:

1. I can spot weld or TIG weld the tabs I made above to the ends of the axles. I could weld them "in situ" so the alignment will be perfect. (Weldo solution)
2. I can cut the tabs shorter and have them fit into slots in the axles. (Mikey solution)
3. I can cross drill the end of one arm and put a #6 set screw (or #8; which is less likely to break?) holding the axle on a flat. (Matt solution)

I believe all of these solutions will work. I am really torn about which route to take. #2 will involve new axles. #3 may be the most elegant. #1 is probably easiest but may look funky.
This has been an interesting journey although more complicated than I imagined. I really appreciate all the interest and suggestions along the way!
Robert
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#3 is how Eagle Rock does it. The advantage is that if you size it right you can use purchased carbide pins instead of making them. All you would need to do is put the set screw in the right place. You might call Eagle Rock for the dimensions of their pins or ask @darkzero to measure his for you.

#2 just works. However, it restricts you to making and using your own pins.

If this was me, I would go buy the pins.
 
I purchased my carbide pins from Accu-Trak. They're available in a number of common sizes. Fit my knurler perfect. They can also make custom sizes.

Knurl Pins - Knurl Accessories - Other Products

Accu Trak makes and sells knurls, knurling tools and knurl holders that are manufactured to extremely high standards from premium alloy tool steels and made to fit any machine.
accu-trak.com accu-trak.com
 
darkzero said:
I purchased my carbide pins from Accu-Trak. They're available in a number of common sizes. Fit my knurler perfect. They can also make custom sizes.

Knurl Pins - Knurl Accessories - Other Products

Accu Trak makes and sells knurls, knurling tools and knurl holders that are manufactured to extremely high standards from premium alloy tool steels and made to fit any machine.
accu-trak.com accu-trak.com
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Thanks, Will.

So, no flats on the pins. Just need a set screw in each arm and you're done, Robert. I do hope you reamed the hole for the pins carefully.
 
My pins don't have flats on them, set screws hold them fine. Since they're harder than the set screw no worry of raising a burr. The pins that came in my knurler didn't have flats on them either, they were carbide too but they weren't original. Doesn't need much force from the set screws to keep em in place.

I'm not sure if the K1-44 originally comes with steel or carbide pins & I'm not sure if steel pins have flats on them if it does come with steel pins. For most scissor knurlers the pins are pressed in so maybe steel pins from Accu-Trak don't normally come with flats.
 
The K1-44 comes with steel pins that have no flats on them. Mine have no burrs from the set screws so I'm sure they're pretty hard, although I haven't taken my Tsubosan files to them.
 
I did not ream the 1/4" holes (embarrassed.) They are not too sloppy though. I suppose slight wobbling of the axle could cause set screw loosening over time. What is the geometry of the Eagle Rock knurler? i.e. where is the set screw in relationship to the angle of pressure on the axle? I was thinking of putting the set screw on the front so the axle is pushed at an angle 90 deg from the axis of the screw? I may experiment (on scrap) as see if I can get a #10 set screw in the 1/4" arm plate.
Robert
 
The set screws are on the top of the upper arm and bottom of lower arm. Pretty sure they're #8 set screws.

Yeah, if the pin bore is not accurate the pin can move/vibrate and may cause the set screw to loosen. On the other hand, it might still work so it's worth a try.
 
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I was also considering using the set screw on the far side to make the hole non-round. I could loctite it in place, have a flat on the end of the axle and keep my plates to retain the axles. Just a thought.
R
 
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