I've always liked Fridays but this one is one of my fav's!

[Tipton1965]

Your cement floor looks to be nice and smooth in the photos. Maybe just use shoe polish wax instead of the plastic as a potential release agent. The edge of the plastic sticking out would not look so good to me.
Also consider topping the new cement pad with a layer of self leveling cement.
I imagine that you have already thought of anchor bolts.

I was thinking leave the plastic cut back an inch or so all the way around so it's not visible. I'd definitely want to add anchor bolts so I could physically connect the machine base to the new concrete base. One small issue is the leveling tabs on the base are threaded. I suppose I could drill them out.

 

[Tozguy]

What size thread are they?

 

[Tipton1965]

What size thread are they?

1/2"

 

[Tozguy]

Considering that the anchor bolts will basically be fixing a cement pad to the bottom of the stand, a 3/8'' cement bolt in the hole as is would be strong enough @ 1000 lbs each. For example:

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The cement pad will lift off the floor long before the 3/8 bolts will give.

 

[Tipton1965]

Considering that the anchor bolts will basically be fixing a cement pad to the bottom of the stand, a 3/8'' cement bolt in the hole as is would be strong enough @ 1000 lbs each. For example:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

The cement pad will lift off the floor long before the 3/8 bolts will give.

I was thinking about using galvanized J-Bolts that I install when I pour the base.

 

[Tozguy]

J bolts is also what first came to my mind. Then I got to wondering how difficult it would be to locate them with precision if clearances are tight through the hole. Remember the cement will shrink as it cures.

Ideally the cement should get to cure for at least a week before setting the stand on it. Then
you could wait until the cement has cured and shrunk for a month before drilling the holes into the cement for the expanding style anchors. The expanding style bolts might have an edge over the J bolts when it comes to esthetics.

 

[Tipton1965]

This is what I came up with. The inside lines are the actual foot print of the stand and the outside lines would be what I form up and pour. I tapered the front a little to help keep it out of the way of my feet. My logic is having enough concrete in the bolt down areas. Looks like the pad would weigh around 400 plus pounds at 6" thick.

 

[Tipton1965]

Also I'm trying to envision how to level the mill after it's in place on the poured concrete pad. Even if the pad is perfectly level it doesn't mean the mill will be level sitting on top of the steel cabinet. If I just bolt the cabinet directly to the concrete base the mill would most likely still need leveling of some sort.

 

[BladesIIB]

I would bolt the Mill securely to the cabinet. Then shim under the base of the cabinet between base and concrete to ensure the Mill table is level. Just my thought.

 

[Tipton1965]

I would bolt the Mill securely to the cabinet. Then shim under the base of the cabinet between base and concrete to ensure the Mill table is level. Just my thought.

That's kind of what I was thinking. Threaded rod coming out of the concrete base. Then a nut with a large thick flat washer on top. Then the steel cabinet resting on the flat washer. Then another flat washer and nut on top of that. Then you could level everything.