Is This South Bend Worth $1000?

I just paid $1250 for a South Bend 13" x 6' bed in good shape and think I got a killer deal without any tooling. I really doubt the lathe is still available!
 
I think a very good deal unless it is totally shot. I would probably take a chance on it myself though.
 
"he do not have it powered yet" Does this mean the seller is a dealer or a flipper, not really the previous owner? Good price for a good lathe if not worn out or neglected. But is it really the right size for the work you want to do? Do you have room for it? And the ability to move it?
 
I’ve found a simple way to estimate the condition of a lathe is to inspect the bottom of the tailstock. If the bearing surface of the tailstock with the bed is notched and worn, you can be sure the ways in front of the chuck are deeply worn also. Same with wear on the jaws of the chuck. Old lathes wear out on all the parts equally. Not just one or two components. If this one looks clean, likely the ways and drive chain are clean also.

$1000 is a very good price for this size lathe in my neck of the woods- unheard of, actually.

Glenn
 
Id.take a drive and get.the Bridgeport before someone else does.
In the same trip pickup the lathe and you got 2 machines for an awesome price!!!
 
I doubt that the shop will actually give it away or sell it for $1.00. This was an advertising trick used by numerous craigslist sellers. For a while in our area nearly 50% of the listings in the tools section had a similar headline. All the sellers were trying to do is get your attention. When you called they gave you the real asking price. In this case if the mill runs and the and the CNC portion works they'll probably get north of $2,000.00. If the CNC doesn't work I would guess it will be a $1,000.00 machine.

On the other hand it never hurts to call and ask. On the off change they are really giving it away it could be a nice addition to your shop. Just don't be too disappointed if they say either it's already gone, or the add was a mistake and they really want $XXX.XX for it.

I doubt the add is placed by a dealer. Worst case they would part it out and make more money than they would selling the machine in one piece. If it's a flipper it could be they bought the machine as part of a "lot". They didn't really want it, so now it's on the market. I've bought a couple machines from people who bought a "lot" at an auction. In both cases they knew I was looking for the machines they had bought. They got the part of the "lot" they really wanted, and I got two excellent machines at dirt cheap prices.
 
Srbowles said:
projectnut said:
As mentioned the key is probably in the chuck just to show it has one. I doubt anyone would be running the machine with the tool holders lying in the chip tray on a rag, the key in the drill chuck, and the cover open on the gear train. It's more of an advertising shot to show what comes with the machine than a shot of it in the working mode.

Also I doubt the owner would be trying to use it when setting on a pair of dollies. Then again that may be a safety mechanism. As it slowly walks across the room it eventually unplugs itself.
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Thanks projectnut - The owner said that he picked it up with a bunch of other equipment and he was going to restore it but simply does not have enough time to do that. He seems to be up front on everything. He even said he would help me install a VFD for 120V. Since he has received it he has not had it hooked up and running yet. I think you are probably correct to say that the chuck key is in place to show that it has one.
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The motor tag indicates larger than 1 hp.

Stick with 240 vac equipment and avoid voltage converting types as well as the Chinese branded units.

We prefer Allen bradley and other have theirs so brand does not really matter that much.

But regardless of brand download the manual before buying to verify first that it will work with single phase supply then look for a table that shows which unit to use for your application.

Some need to be De - rated for single phase while others may not work at all or bi in alarm.

After that read the installation and configuration instructions to be sure you can figure it out.

Ours has a 3 wire control option that has run and reverse as 2 wires and stop as third.

The Drum Switch Has 3 Sets Of Contacts So Slight Mod To Insure ONE Set ALWAYS makes first and used for stop and the operation is just like factory.

A pot is located elsewhere for speed control.

Made a frame that is mounted to the bolts for the chip tray and everything (vfd in box, for bar and pot main power switch) all are mounted to frame so the complete lathe is stock other than longer bolts to support frame and modified drum switch.

Can do MPR minutes per revolution without back gear via vfd.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
Well, thanks to you folks for your guidance on this machine. I purchased it tonight. The guy I bought it in a “lot” of two South Bends and two mills. He did hook it up with a VFD and it sounded great! It is a flat belt drive with a 1-1/2 HP motor. After reading the comments above and speaking to the seller in person, I decided not to insult him with a lower amount. He said he would even deliver to me at no cost and I’m 45 minutes away from him. He said the machines that he bought came from a county auction selling school related items. I think when he purchased the “lot” he just ended up with more than he could handle at one time plus the machines really filled up his garage.

Thanks again to all that gave input! You guys are awesome!
 
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