Is this a reasonable horizontal band saw solution for a small shop?

[Bi11Hudson]

All these portable band-saws that copy the "Porta-Band"s make me question reality. That is not the word I want, but it will serve. I have used, and possess, a Milwaukee Porta-Band since sometime in the late '70s. My primary use was/is cutting conduit. Although I use it for solid material when a carpenter's circular saw will not cut the material. My biggest issue is when the saw "drifts" from the desired line. Some of this is when the blade loses its' "set", and some of it is my inability to hold the saw steady, especially on a solid material. A portable band saw isn't that heavy to pick up, but over the time it takes to make a cut will often gain weight to the point is has more than trebled. And that's not from old age, the same phenomenon occured when I was in my 20s.

I bring this up to point out that the mechanism for rolling the blade and the metalurgy of the blade make a great deal of difference in "controling" the cut. An older Milwaukee or Starrett blade will maintain its' set longer. No blade will last forever, that's why they make replacement blades. But as the blade loses its' set, it can be controlled to an extent to compensate, giving a "few" more cuts where time is of the essence. When a blade comes out of the package (new) and doesn't cut straight, I scrap the blade and don't acquire any more from that source.

Truing the guides is important here as well. Even a good saw will lose its' accuracy when dropped or repeatedly tossed into a tool locker. A not so good saw may come from the factory that way. The guides MUST be true to each other. If there is any twist across the cutting section of the blade between the guides it will not cut true. I use a thin straight edge to adjust mine, there is probably a tool specifically for this but I'm a cheap old buzzard and never looked for one.

These two points apply to any band saw, whether a portable or a stationary machine. The guides must be true and the blade have the proper "set". There is no negotiation on these two points.

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[DavidR8]

@rwdenney I have a version of that Grizzly saw and it's ok. Just OK. I used Milwaukee Portaband saws extensively while working in the US and they are head and shoulders above clones. Unfortunately Milwaukee doesn't make a stand for their saws. Maybe there's a reason for that?

The stand is ok and works alright so long as you aren't expecting a perfectly plumb cut.

I used to own a 4x6 horizontal saw, sold in in a quest for more floor space, bought the portaband-style with stand and almost instantly regretted it. I lucked out and found a basically new Delta 4x6 saw and am happy again.
The portaband-style saw excels in situations where you have to bring the saw to the work or the work won't fit in the 4x6 vise because of odd configuration etc.

 

[rwdenney]

@rwdenney I have a version of that Grizzly saw and it's ok. Just OK. I used Milwaukee Portaband saws extensively while working in the US and they are head and shoulders above clones. Unfortunately Milwaukee doesn't make a stand for their saws. Maybe there's a reason for that?

The stand is ok and works alright so long as you aren't expecting a perfectly plumb cut.

I used to own a 4x6 horizontal saw, sold in in a quest for more floor space, bought the portaband-style with stand and almost instantly regretted it. I lucked out and found a basically new Delta 4x6 saw and am happy again.
The portaband-style saw excels in situations where you have to bring the saw to the work or the work won't fit in the 4x6 vise because of odd configuration etc.

Yes, that's good experience, thanks. The Harbor Freight 4x6 is a little more expensive but it's a lot bigger and heavier, and I expect every bit as amenable to modification as this Grizzly thing. I can get it locally, so there's no shipping, if I can find a store that has it in stock (a couple apparently do, but I never see it out on the floor). Before buying anything, I want to see one of those set up.

The used ones I see in the local marketplace in that price range are either used HF cheapies or they are utterly clapped out. I will fix something to get a good deal, but for one that is untested and a pile of rust, I define "good deal" as a couple of twenties, not three or four C-notes. The folks around here are proud of their rusty old stuff.

Nothing is like Milwaukee of old, except maybe Porter Cable of even older. Neither are like they were. I've actually used my old Milwaukee Sawzall (made in USA and came in a metal carry case) with a metal-cutting blade to hack through structural steel, car frames, structural aluminum, rebar, conduit--speaking of not being easy to keep the cut straight!

The vise in the stand looks like it is ripe for modification and improvement, but the thing it has that the portables don't usually have is the hinge allowing that sort of application in the first place.

I've been spending money for stuff in my new shop (and that includes the new shop) like it's going out of style (which it seems to be, but that's another story) and really want to save up for bigger machines. But I think it's pretty hard to have fun with a lathe or a mill without a usable band saw.

Rick "finger not near any buy button yet" Denney

 

[pontiac428]

The 4x6 is a lot of value for the money. Mine cut square and straight out of the box with minimal setup. Good blades are all you need, and they're not expensive. It fits under a bench or against the wall. Mine fits between my knee mill and the wall, I just pull it out to use it and wheel it back when I'm done. Even at $250, it's a great value. Sure, I'd like a Delta, but the 4x6 does the job well and takes less space.

 

[Firebrick43]

I have one like this (Balleigh), and use it all the time, even though I have much larger ones. It pivots 60deg, but in the opposite plane than the one you show. Bought it used, but almost new. There are similar saws that are cheaper Chinese knockoffs that probably work just fine.

View attachment 418274

The baleigh is an asian knockoff. the original is made in italy by femi.

 

[Firebrick43]

@rwdenney I have a version of that Grizzly saw and it's ok. Just OK. I used Milwaukee Portaband saws extensively while working in the US and they are head and shoulders above clones. Unfortunately Milwaukee doesn't make a stand for their saws. Maybe there's a reason for that?

The stand is ok and works alright so long as you aren't expecting a perfectly plumb cut.

I used to own a 4x6 horizontal saw, sold in in a quest for more floor space, bought the portaband-style with stand and almost instantly regretted it. I lucked out and found a basically new Delta 4x6 saw and am happy again.
The portaband-style saw excels in situations where you have to bring the saw to the work or the work won't fit in the 4x6 vise because of odd configuration etc.

Milwaukee makes a stand.

Milwaukee portaband stand.

 

[projectnut]

Personally, I would hold out for a stand-alone machine. Either a power hacksaw or a stand-alone horizontal bandsaw. In my opinion both are superior to a bench top machine like the one you're considering. Both the power hacksaw and the stand-alone bandsaw can more easily handle longer pieces of stock. In addition, they don't have to be attended to. They can be allowed to run on their own while you do something else.

For the record I have an abrasive saw that has been converted to a dry saw. It uses a speed reducer module to bring the blade rpm down to 1,800, and a carbide toothed blade ground to cut aluminum. It sounded like a great idea at the time but isn't very practical. It's messy, not nearly as sturdy as the other saws, requires a hands-on operator, and is extremely noisy.

I was able to purchase a 3 speed Racine 6 x 6 power hacksaw for less than $200.00 and a Startrite 7 x 12 horizontal/vertical bandsaw for less than $500.00. Both are coolant capable and can be setup and left alone to complete the job. The Racine saw weighs about 700 lbs. and the Startrite weighs about 300 lbs.

There is currently a Carolina bandsaw, on Craigslist in our area with an asking price of less than $300.00. I realize they are lower end machines, but I believe they are a step up from the HF ones that seem to be so popular. There are also a couple power hacksaws listed. Both are dry cut saws. One has an asking price of $300,00 while the other has an asking price of $110.00. Again, I believe both of these saws would be superior to a benchtop bandsaw.

If you're patient I'm sure you can find a better saw for your money.

 

[DeanB]

I have one like this (Balleigh), and use it all the time, even though I have much larger ones. It pivots 60deg, but in the opposite plane than the one you show. Bought it used, but almost new. There are similar saws that are cheaper Chinese knockoffs that probably work just fine.

View attachment 418274

I have the Klutch version of that saw. Works really well, not the fastest thing in larger thicker material but it works and gives good square cuts.

 

[MrWhoopee]

I put the 4x6 horizontal/vertical on the 5 essentials list. I can't think of another piece of equipment that gives equal bang for the buck. I bought a new one from HF and have made numerous mods to it. Then I inherited a 70s or 80s version, which I converted to a dedicated vertical. I also have a big (9x16) Kalamazoo that gets used maybe once or twice a year. Get a 4x6, or get a porta-band and wish you had.

 

[homebrewed]

I bought a portable bandsaw and used it awhile, but got tired of the noise and weight when cutting larger stock. Maybe it was the particular saw, but it was noisy enouth to be uncomfortable to ue. These days I use an inexpensive 4x6 vertical/horizontal bandsaw from Harbor Freight. With some tweaks and a decent blade it cuts pretty straight. It has some nice features like a fence for cutting a number of equal-length pieces, a nice option I've used now and then.