I'll just take this one part off...

I figured out what at least one of the crunchy bits is. I found this picture of the little reversing gear online and realised that it is different to mine.
Mine has the key as a separate part where in the pic it is cast in.

My key can slide along the shaft a bit and engage with the bevel gear on either side.
I was wondering how this is supposed to work as it looked like an accident waiting to happen.
Close examination shows that someone has tried to solder it in place at some stage.

With the key loose it is also nearly impossible to assemble. So this explains a lot.

(Also one more piece I need to replace)

I'll be very proud of it if I get it back to nice working order again :)

David

ReversingGear.jpg
 
You need this bit? DSCN0562[1].JPG
I have this one, its a spare. Its definitely not new, however it is in good working condition. If you're interested in it, we can haggle in PM's.

Terry

PS I only gave a slight once over with a rag, so its a bit oily yet.

DSCN0562[1].JPG
 
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Did someone make those brass bevel gears? all the ones I have seen are ZAMAK at any rate you could braze the missing tooth and hand dress it to work. As far as the stripped lock nuts on the lead screw that might be a blessing I have had and have seen those come loose and tighten up enough to strip gears just replace the nuts with a locking collar.
 
Hi Iron Man,

Here is a picture of the tailstock end of my lead screw.
Both of those nuts just spin around and it appears there is some sort or thrust washer next to them.
The Parts List describes them as "Cone Nuts" but no part number so I'm assuming they are standard 1/2" UNF lock nuts.
If I get those nuts off and loosen that screw in the thrust washer should the bearing / bracket come off the end of the lead screw?

As for the Bronze bevel gears, I was wondering about that myself. All the pictures I have seen look like they are made of steel or some kind of alloy.
I'm not sure what ZAMAC is but I'm guessing it is "Some kind of alloy" :)

The three bevel gears in the reversing mechanism are also made from bronze but the teeth are mostly intact on them.

I haven't done any brazing in a long time and don't have the equipment at the moment. I might have to see what I can find.

David

IMG_0703.jpg
 
If I get those nuts off and loosen that screw in the thrust washer should the bearing / bracket come off the end of the lead screw?
Click to expand...

Yes, it will come off at at that point, or you could just remove the two bolts holding the bearing to the bed, and remove the entire lead screw without taking the bearing off the screw. It will slide to the right, just remember to catch the gear in the F/R gear box as the lead screw clears it.

Terry
 
Yes those two nuts are 1/2" UNF otherwise known as 1/2" - 20 tpi. As Privateer noted, you can remove those 2 1/4" - 20 bolts that hold the rh leadscrew bracket to the bed and slide the whole unit to the right to clear the traversing gear box and the apron if they are still installed.
Pierre
 
Zamak is a alloy mixture it is a high grade of pot metal with better control of the contents it last a log time but as it age's the metals start to react with one another and it gets brittle and breaks down. If you get the nuts off and the threads are damaged like I said before a collar with a setscrew will work fine that is what i put on mine I dont really care for the nuts on there. Ray
 
Terry,
I have had those two bolts out of the lead screw bracket already when I had the apron off.
Now I'm more interested about fixing or replacing those two stripped nuts and couldn't tell if there was some secret to getting them off.

Iron Man,
when you say replace them nuts with a "collar with a setscrew" did you make a round cylinder to go over the end of the lead screw, drill and tap a hole in the side of it and clamp it down on the top of 1/2" thread?

I suppose I could just make a flat on the 1/2" lead screw thread for the set screw to land on.

I'm sure I'll come up with something.
 
David,

I think the key would be to determine whether the nuts or the leadscrew threads are stripped. If it's the nuts, you can simply replace them. If it's the leadscrew threads, then I think you could use a setscrew collar as suggested and just bite the setscrew down in between the treads, with no flat required. Good luck.

Allen
 
If the threads on the leadscrew are buggered, you could also turn them off and make new threads like 7/16 20 or whatever works for you.
Pierre
 
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