Identify This 10EE With Only A Picture Game

[Charlieman22]

Thanks gents.
Rabler - off to find your thread.

Extropic - Steep learning curve... still harvesting bits and pieces of what you shared with me to help me press forward.
In fact - part of my desire for the 10EE (other than its beauty and accuracy) is the potential compatibility with my mill.
Would be nice to utilize an ER 40 collet chuck - so I can share tooling and go deep on those for example.
Let's hope this thing comes through - until it is on my trailer - there is always risk the seller could change their mind - or the like.

your pictures of the mill on the trailer, showing only two straps, activated my pucker switch

Well stated.

I actually had chains at the front, so it was tied to all 4 corners.
The straps were more evident as they were yellow and on the back - and wrapped on top of the chains - but the thing was in fact solid as a rock - for which I am thankful given the state of some of the roads I came back on.

In any event - good reminder not to be cavalier on that front.

 

[extropic]

Be sure to collect any accessories the seller has to fit the lathe.
Is there a collet chuck or collet closer? What about collets? Steady rest? Follow rest? Four Jaw chuck? Drive plate? Face Plate? Tailstock accessories?

Good Luck.

 

[rabler]

Be prepared, a 10EE weighs about 3500 lbs. The two covers on the headstock end are prone to falling off and cracking. best to remove them before moving the lathe. The cross web between the ways nearest the headstock is a good place to run a strap for lifting.

 

[Charlieman22]

Quick update - should anyone be loosing sleep...
This one will go on hold for a couple of weeks.
Seller is out of state - so pick up will have to wait.
Assuming it doesn't fall through - the delay will have done me a favor.
Have entirely too many projects on the go right now - including this one:

 

[Charlieman22]

Be prepared, a 10EE weighs about 3500 lbs. The two covers on the headstock end are prone to falling off and cracking. best to remove them before moving the lathe. The cross web between the ways nearest the headstock is a good place to run a strap for lifting.

Rabler - Thank you.
I have begun to do a bit of research to hatch a moving plan.
The mill I moved was 4300 lbs - with what seamed like 4299 of those lbs in the head.
I had a successful and secure move - however - I had time to visit/ a super cooperative seller/ and a custom rolling cradle I built.
(30 seconds of fun here of the unloading:

)

This move will be tougher in some matters.
Any advice/critiquing appreciated.
My current/simplest plan:
1. A drop bed trailer - this was a huge difference maker with the mill move.
2. A come along
3. 2@ 4' long 4x6's
4. Some blocking, a long pry bar, and a car jack
5. A 2 ton palet jack

From what I have read, there are three holes on the bottom of the machine that will accept 5/8" bolts.
Can you confirm there are holes in the bottom of the machine like this?

My idea is to use the pry bar and wedges to lift the machine.
Then slide the 4x6's under, and lag bolt them in (is there room for a small electric impact drive above the holes?)
With the machine on the 4x6's, lift with pallet jack, lower trailer bed to ground, use come along to pull pallet jack and machine on to trailer.

Having never seen a 10EE in person - much less looked inside it - I don't really know if this is going to fly.
Thoughts?

this video shows someone moving the machine on a pallet jack - in a reasonably stable manner - gave me the idea for it.

 

[rabler]

Alot more compact then the mill but same weight range.

There are three bolt holes in the base of mine. It is of course a 20+ year later model so the door configuration changed, but I think you can get a battery impact driver in there.

The biggest danger is the lathe tipping forward or backward. Helps to move it long way, inline with the bed.

I would suggest adding a good sized skate to your equipment. Like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=machinery+skate&i=garden&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Skate under tailstock. Pallet jack under 4x6 from headstock end.

Maybe loop a rachet strap from the 4x6 over the bed to the 4x6 on the other side in addition to the lag bolts? Especially on the tailstock end where there is only one bolthole. Rather than lag bolts I strongly suggest long bolts all the way through the lumber from the bottom with fender washers and nuts. Easier to secure, a simple ratcheting open ended wrench, and will hold better.

oxtools/Tom’s angle iron and all-thread wheels work pretty good under the headstock as another option

 

[Charlieman22]

Plenty of good things to consider in that.
Thank you.

Found same issue with the mill - completely unstable when lifted from the side - much better when lifted in the long axis.
Will take the other suggestions on board and think about options.
Simple is good - but only if it doesn't make it a powder keg risk.

Found a thread on using drop bed tailer with rolling bars under machine: https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/another-way-move-10ee-100125/. Seems like bring some bars with me might also have some merit.

Also found this - posting here so I have it handy as I get closer. Gives me the basic footprint.
Have my starting point.
Will keep flipping stones but this should be enough to chew on to start - but all solutions will consider lifting on long axis rather than short.

 

[Karl_T]

From what I have read, there are three holes on the bottom of the machine that will accept 5/8" bolts.
Can you confirm there are holes in the bottom of the machine like this?

I just bolted my 10EE to a skid for moving it 2000 miles. Used 3/4 bolts on the three through holes

 

[Charlieman22]

I just bolted my 10EE to a skid for moving it 2000 miles. Used 3/4 bolts on the three through holes

Thanks Karl.
What year/power system did your machine have?
Did you load it on the trailer yourself?

 

[Karl_T]

It is about 1950s. did not look up serial number for exact year.

It had an MGset. I pulled it all and replaced with a 10hp and VFD. Have a thread here on how it was done.

Monarch 10EE rebuild 10Hp VFD no backgear

I bought my second 10EE a while back https://www.machinesused.com/lots/Monarch-10EE-Toolroom-Lathe-with-Taper-Attachment-and-Chucks-25097#bidNow After playing with the existing DC motor and drive, I gave up on repairing it. I did not try super hard, not too excited about maintaining an antique...

www.hobby-machinist.com

I am getting ready to rent a Penske truck for a 2K mile trip in a couple months. Will rent a fork truck to unload, have my own here.