I call them "SKOOKUM SHEDS"

[woodchucker]

I wasn't degrading myself, just saying that as a sawyer, you know things that I don't. They are two different disciplines. so I was putting my statements into perspective. Just wanted to help, but not seem like the expert...

Also many here don't deal with wood regularly, so want to make sure others understand green wood shrinks. Bryan Bloc (youtuber) who has rebuilt a barn didn't realize this when he used green wood as clapboard.. it shrunk and he had gaps...so while he looked like he knew what he was doing, he didn't understand the amount of shrink. I tried warning him, but I was too late the videos are made way before you see them...... He did a great job on the barn, better than I could do.. way better. But he didn't know about the amount of shrinkage.
I watch the humidity in my shop as I work... it's important to know where my wood is at the moment. I prefer air dried to kiln dried. Even for furniture. Sometimes it has less stresses. Kiln drying is usually ok, but sometimes it's done poorly.

Anyway just didn't want to seem like I knew more, when I know my woodworking, but not what you do in cutting logs up.

 

[f350ca]

When installing board and batten I use a method I noticed on old buildings that were no doubt built with green lumber. The board only gets fastened in the middle allowing it to shrink without cracking. The battens are again only fastened in the middle, missing the boards. The battens hold the board from warping but allow it to move under them. I use deck screws, the old buildings had nails but the same principle.

Greg

 

[cathead]

The battens were out in the sun for several days and put in the building before the rain so they seemed
dry enough to install. The battens were planed and passed through a corner rounding router. Galvanized
nails were used and I was careful to nail all the nails in at an angle. This gives two nails in close proximity better
holding power than just nailing them in straight. It was a lot of hand work, measuring each piece and installing
them but worth it in the end I think. In the past, I just nailed up rough sawn battens on other sheds and but this turns
out to look a whole lot nicer. It depends on the use of the shed so just a woodshed doesn't get as much attention.
I made up my own stain mix using some dark walnut stain mixed with boiled linseed oil. I happened to have a
gallon can that was bought previously before the huge price inflation. I see on E-Bay that a 5 gallon can of
boiled linseed is now over 150 dollars!





This is the north facing and west facing side of the building. It's hard to see the rounded corner. I saved four battens that were
routered on one edge only just for the corners. I'm pretty happy with the results so far. The battens had a lot of imperfections
and worm holes etc while the boards were fairly clear, well, most of them.

 

[cathead]

Thanks for sharing! Great food for thought, as I am in need of a storage shed and going between building or buying, possible woodpecker and falling tree damage. I do have some fiber cement board for siding, and I have successfully installed it on 1 x 6” furring strips spaced 18” apart on a pole barn that I built before. Lots of ideas floating around in my head.

One important detail concerning board and batten vertically placed boards is that horizontal boards placed in between the vertical 2x4s
are needed for structural strength of the building. In standard construction, these are called fire stops. I used seven foot walls so my
reinforcement boards are placed at 42 inches from the floor. If anyone is actually following my build plan, it is something you need to include.
It also gives one 2x4 shelving all the way around the inside of the build.

 

[jwmay]

Pretty cool to see! Gotta get a permit for anything here.