I bought a broke smithy!

[Flybyjohn]

Well thank you for the thorough write up TQ 60. I think I smell what you’re getting at. If it is what I’m thinking, then I am limited to clearance on the top of the support with only about a 1/32” or less. I have attached a couple more photos showing why nothing can be attached to the top, which is why my drawing was showing the support attached to the front of the support. The bevel gear, which mates with the bevel gear you see in the top down picture is for the mill that attaches to the top of the head stock. this bevel gear sits almost touching the top of the bearing support(cracked piece). You can see that the portion that is cracked is very thin in section. Again, I think a very poor design leaving this area so thin.

I am thinking with a plate of steel in front. I can still put some screws, parallel the spindle through the support into a piece of steel between the support and the chuck. The cracked portion is only about a quarter inch thick however I have 0.6 inches from the spindle to the top of the support. This allows me to use approximately 1/2 “ x 1” piece of steel. The steel will be placed in a strong access position so I should get maximum ridgidity out of it.

In order to do this, I will need to place a couple access holes through either the chuck side of the spindle or the opposite side to be able to run a drillbit through and a tap. I can then plug the holes with a threaded grub screw. If I only use 1/4”-28 bolts, then my access holes will only need to be about a quarter inch diameter and 46 of them should not weaken the structure substantially.

 

[Flybyjohn]

Here is a picture of a mock-up of what I’m trying to describe. The cardboard would of course be the steel. The steel would go to both sides, carefully fitted and then two more bolts from each side into the ends of the steel.

 

[Flybyjohn]

That previous post was supposed to say 4 to 6 access holes not 46 holes

 

[mac1911]

Not sure where your at with this

As for replacement parts. Many are often expensive compared to buying the complete tool.
I have a older 1220 XL
Honestly I think these machines suck. Yeah sure you can do stuff but I have spent more time fixing , adjusting modding my 1220 Im ready to sell it cheap to get it out of here lol
Really I paid very short money for it. I need new 1/2 nut for the cross feed its like $100 shipped, ugh
I need a better mill vice before I attempt to use the mill again. That crap “drill press” style vise that smithy offers sucks.
You might be better off just asking for some money back from the seller and start looking for another used unit for parts.
My model is old enough that many parts are no longer available on the web site anyway.
I did find support really good for technical help and info about the machine.

I look at that crack and wonder if it was cracked at the point of manufacture ?

 

[wa5cab]

First, of the several repair materials/repair methods discussed I would opt for welding with nickle rod.

However, before doing that, I would take advantage of the fact the fact that lots of that particular model were sold and possibly other models may have used the same machined casting. And first look for someone who is parting out a model that uses that particular machined casting and buy the used part. You have the factory quoted price to work with and one requirement would be that it is cheaper.

 

[mac1911]

This is the vise that came with the original tool package.

 

[The Custom Crafter]

I would V the crack and mig weld it. Grind it soothe, inspect. Why? Well it's because I have done it enough times on motor blocks and bell housings, so many times I have become good at it. That and I have a good welder to do it with