How to turn a Barrel?

[MattM]

Client brought in twelve standard Ruger 10/22 barrels that he wants parted off 2" from the muzzle and turned down to .500" from there to 2" from the breech end.

I tried one and had problems because of chatter. I tried different speeds, feeds, inserts. Nothing worked. The dimensions are not super critical but the muzzle will be threaded 1/2x20.

Any suggestions?

 

[Firstram]

Are you licensed to work on firearms for clients?

 

[MattM]

No. Didn't realize a barrel is a firearm.

 

[Dabbler]

@MattM Older Ruger barrels are hammer rifled [edit] forged (my mistake in terminology)- that is they are compressed from the outside on a mandrel to make the rifling. This work hardens the barrels making them difficult to machine. they have alternating hard and soft spots that can begin the fluctuations that cause chatter.

If you really have to do this, invest in a large lathe, follow rest and CBN tooling.

 

[Cadillac STS]

For the parting off it may be easier to cut that off with the band saw and face it with the lathe?

 

[Janderso]

Hammer forged barrels.
Tough to machine I would think. Never done it.
Keep us up to date on what works for you.
Should be fun, for us.

 

[mickri]

If you are charging the going rate for machine work it would most likely be less expensive to buy already contoured barrels. After turning the barrel you also have to polish it and blue it. All this takes lots of time.

Have you checked the hoop strength of the barrel. .5 OD might not be strong enough even for a 22lr.

Do you have insurance for this type of work? Once you touch these barrels you are on the hook should any problems arise down the road.

 

[MattM]

I have a large lathe and a follow rest. Don't see how a follow rest would work. Wouldn't it just follow the contour? Certainly would be the ticket if the barrel was not tapered. In fact I suggested he buy untapered barrels. Shaw makes one for $100.00. Too expensive.

Good idea to bandsaw then recrown. I'm going to try another tomorrow. Client said he had plenty of barrels and not to worry if I ruin a few.

 

[MattM]

Finish is not important as it will be covered. I'm not touching the chamber area so strength should not be a problem.

 

[Jubil]

I recently turned/profiled a barrel blank for a Mauser in 270 caliber. I put a steady rest at halfway point then turned tailstock end. Moved steady toward tailstock far enough to turn chamber end. I used a standard hss turning tool. The steady helped the chatter but not much, and my finished muzzle end was over .500. But I drawfile and sand out machine marks before going to polishing stage.
I have tried using wood blocks, low rpm, (low for my lathe is 70 rpm) and even holding an oiled piece of leather around barrel. All of these were minimally effective. Can’t use follow rest due to taper. So I guess I can’t be of much help with your problem.

Chuck