How To Remove Rust Without Removing Original Scrapings

Thanks everyone. I have a lot of options to consider. I really appreciate your posts!

Susan
 
For stuff like this, i use the following process.

  1. Clean the part/machine with a strong degreaser.
  2. try removing rust from the part/machine with a chemical ruse remover like evaporust, naval jelly molasses etc. You can try electrolysis if you like living dangerously. :)
  3. abrasive rust removal as a last resort
 
Susan, if your goal is to retain the scraping marks without adding more scratches or exposing yourself to acids or other chemicals then electrolysis is a very good option. I've done my RF-31 mill table, too many tools to mention, anvils and even several whole lawnmower chassis in an electrolytic tank and can tell you that there is no removal of the parent metal this way. Unless you are brain dead and stick your hand into the solution with power on (low voltage but high amperage), this is a pretty safe way to go. There is a tiny amount of Hydrogen gas generated but hardly enough to constitute a real danger if you work outside.

You should learn to do electrolysis. Easy, very safe (in my hands at least) and one of the most effective methods of rust removal there is. Evaporust, Phosphoric Acid, Scotchbrite, steel and synthetic steel wool also works - I've used these agents, too - but to retain the parent material with the least potential for altering the surface finish, electrolysis gets my vote.
 
Your goal is to preserve the appearance of hand scraped ways?

I have often wondered if there was a small market for hand scraped way decals that may be applied to machine surfaces to give the impression of hand scraping much like auto and motorcycle enthusiasts use decals to mimic carbon fibre components. I suspect that the market is far to limited for 3M to get involved in.

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Oil and a straight edge razor.
Degrease and use paper towels soaked in evaporust covered with plastic wrap
Green scotch brite and oil.
In that order.
 
P. Waller said:
Your goal is to preserve the appearance of hand scraped ways?

I have often wondered if there was a small market for hand scraped way decals that may be applied to machine surfaces to give the impression of hand scraping much like auto and motorcycle enthusiasts use decals to mimic carbon fibre components. I suspect that the market is far to limited for 3M to get involved in.

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Click to expand...
The subject at hand is not hand scraped ways, it is an oil flaked table top, done with a Biax power oil flaker.
 
I think I mentioned in this thread that I'd post a pic of the mill in my garage, so here it is, taking up half the garage, lol!
Things look extra crowded since I am in the middle of rearranging the machines for optimum usage/free space.
I still haven't gotten around to removing that windshield tennis ball from my "use the garage to house the car" days ;-)

Susan
287839
 
mikey said:
Susan, if your goal is to retain the scraping marks without adding more scratches or exposing yourself to acids or other chemicals then electrolysis is a very good option. I've done my RF-31 mill table, too many tools to mention, anvils and even several whole lawnmower chassis in an electrolytic tank and can tell you that there is no removal of the parent metal this way. Unless you are brain dead and stick your hand into the solution with power on (low voltage but high amperage), this is a pretty safe way to go. There is a tiny amount of Hydrogen gas generated but hardly enough to constitute a real danger if you work outside.

You should learn to do electrolysis. Easy, very safe (in my hands at least) and one of the most effective methods of rust removal there is. Evaporust, Phosphoric Acid, Scotchbrite, steel and synthetic steel wool also works - I've used these agents, too - but to retain the parent material with the least potential for altering the surface finish, electrolysis gets my vote.
Click to expand...
I agree that electrolysis is best, but I am working by myself. 275 lbs is too much for me to handle alone
Susan
 
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