How To Remove Rust Without Removing Original Scrapings

With that crusty rust, sometimes a soaking with like WD40 and using a new razor blade angled. You can shave off the crusty stuff. BUT, and I mean this very cautiously, if you are not careful, you can scratch the surface. Once you get below the crusty rust it’s much easier to finish up the remaining rust. Sorry you do not like Evaporust, I do. If your parts are turning black, I think you are leaving them too long in the Evaporust. On really big surfaces/jobs. I soak paper towels in Eaporust and lay the towels over the rusted areas. “Keeping the towels wet”. And again be very careful and totally cover you project. Any area not covered or air pocket could leave a discoloration when you job is done, Also, cast iron can look awful and give the impression it’s beyond help when it has rust on it. I have been pleasantly surprised more than not and found a decent looking cast iron surface under the rust…Good Luck, Dave
 
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+1 on the comments about dried machine oil. Half the staining and buildup on old machines is usually dried oil.

I usually go through a three step cleaning process to clean up table surfaces and ways - first dissolve the machine oils with plain old laundry soap spot remover+- the kind you buy in a spray bottle at Safeway, then take off the rust with diesel and scrub pads, finally, wipe many times with soft rags and way oil to remove the left over grit. Sometimes I’ll wash everything down with paint thinner. Depends on what kind of residue and crud is on the machine.

I use scotch brite pads with Cheapo, $3 Safeway spot remover from the laundry soap aisle. All the new grease remover formulations that you buy in the grocery store do a wonderful job cutting dried machine oil off Milling tables and ways. Last year I cleaned up 30 years of oil, dirt, and shavings off an 18” x 72 Cinncinatti tray top lathe that had seen a lifetime of use at a Honolulu sugar mill, using this stuff. Couple of squirts with the spray bottle and all the gunk came off.

The last step is super important. Wiping down with wayoil removes fine micro grit that will eat up the surface of your Milling table when you slide work pieces and heavy vises across. Similar to running a lathe carriage back and forth on your ways. The grey streaking that comes up with a good oil wipe down is all the metallic grit embeddd in the surface that was ground off your table top. The table ain’t clean till the rag comes up clean!

Actually I do this last step every time I use a machine. Get it perfectly clean, then oil it up with fresh, clean way oil to lube the table when you start your Milling operation.

Glenn
 
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I used Zep 505 on my mill when I was cleaning it up. That stuff really impressed me, and it didn't seem terribly nasty. That and some scotchbrite pads and lots of paper towels.
Another thing to check is the oiler system is working, either a one shot system or zerk style.
Joe Hynes
287494
 
no one has mentioned it yet so i'll throw my hat into the ring...

Phosphoric Acid is highly effective in removing rust from ferrous metal
add scotchbrite or steel wool to the equation and go to town.
wipe with water dampened rag/towel
then, oil down after treatment to prevent new rust
 
Ulma Doctor said:
no one has mentioned it yet so i'll throw my hat into the ring...

Phosphoric Acid is highly effective in removing rust from ferrous metal
add scotchbrite or steel wool to the equation and go to town.
wipe with water dampened rag/towel
then, oil down after treatment to prevent new rust
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I would add to this, use the gel version (it's available from most hardware stores, in the paint section). Get some of those elbow length rubber gloves and a face shield. It's not strong enough to burn your skin right away, but if you leave it on for more than a minute or two, it will let you know that it's a strong acid. Also, I expect getting it in your eyes would be far from fun. Good luck.
 
Bob Korves said:
First, that is not scraping, it is flaking. You can tell by the deeper half moon marks. The mating surfaces are ground at the factory, and that would leave metal flat against metal, which causes stick slip and also causes galling and wear. So they flaked the surfaces. Flaking also looks nice, which is an important sale factor. In the case of the table, flaking is done ONLY to make it look nice. The table is not a way, it is a mounting surface. Flaking is much deeper than scraping, though it does still wear away with time and use. I agree with the idea of Scotchbrite and a lubricant to clean up the table. Don't get carried away with rubbing it, the areas between the flaking are the original table surfaces, less whatever wear has occurred since new. You do not want to add to the existing wear. Scotchbrite has grit in it, so make sure not to get it into other parts of the mill while working on the surface you are cleaning, so clean everything carefully after using the Scotchbrite. Scotchbrite also comes in different colors, which have coarser and finer grit. I would recommend light gray. If all you have is maroon, then go easier with it, it is more aggressive. Flaking is ideally added to the UPPER surfaces facing down, so they can hold oil for lubrication. Flat metal on flat metal does not allow that. Putting flaking on the bottom surfaces, facing upward, is strictly for making it pretty, and it causes swarf and grit to accumulate in the pockets, causing ongoing wear. "Monkey likes shiny." So keep those pockets cleaned out. Actually, do whatever you want with it, Susan, it is your machine, not ours...
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Hi Bob,
You are always welcome to tell me what you think would work best - in metalworking anyways ;-)
I respect your opinion. It's my way of having to minumize having to learn lessons through trial and error, or the hard way.
So, thank you for educating me in scraping and flaking.
Susan
 
benmychree said:
Another good cleaning product is Oil Eater, it's 409 on steroids; it softens paint, but when it evaporates, the paint re hardens, I use it full strength.
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Thanks benmychree. I will look into that.
 
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