How To Grind A Hss Turning Tool

Great write up Mikey. I have them all saved as .pdf files and I always refer to them. Thank you. You have helped me and many others learn.
That Craftsman belt sander is the Unicorn of belt sanders. They don't come up often and your mods make the work better. Nice.
One question; Are chip breakers on lathe tools important? Will it make a big difference on heavier cuts? I've seen Chip Breakers ground with Dremel tools.
 
One question; Are chip breakers on lathe tools important? Will it make a big difference on heavier cuts? I've seen Chip Breakers ground with Dremel tools.

Thank you for your kind words, Emilio. Like everyone else, just trying to help.

Chip breakers seem to be important to some folks, which is fine, but they are more trouble to grind than they're worth, in my opinion. I'm not just saying that because at one point I spent a lot of time grinding them and seeing for myself what the fuss was about. Let me be clear; chip breakers work if you grind them properly and use them under the right conditions. They are not a panacea for all cutting woes.

A chip breaker has to be near enough to the cutting edge without compromising that edge, and it has to be wide enough to guide the chip. I found that a V-shape doesn't work well because the chip often doesn't flow down the initial face; it goes right over it. What does work is to grind a V and then grind down the front half, toward the cutting edge, and then re-grind the edge. If you look at a chip breaker on a carbide insert you will find that there is a clear cutting edge and a bump to deflect the chip to encourage it to curl and break; this is the same thing I did on a HSS tool and it works much better than a V-shape. It also takes a heck of a lot of work to make one. You can dremel all you want but I bet it won't work much better than having no chip breaker at all. With that said, maybe I have no talent for this sort of thing so take it for what its worth.

I found that the right speed and feed works nearly as well as my early attempts. Aluminum and stainless are the two materials that are notorious for making long, stringy chips but even carbon steels will do it if you take a shallow cut slow enough. If you take a deep enough cut at a fast enough feed rate, aluminum will chip off fine. Granted, some gummier alloys will string out regardless of what you do but for the most part, taking a heavy roughing cut at a slightly faster feed rate helps a lot. To be honest, I just live with the chips and make the cuts I have to make. Sometimes I have a big piece to cut and can take a big roughing cut but more often I'm starting with a piece that is near to my finished size. In that case, I get strings so I speed up my feed and hope for the best.

So, the bottom line FOR ME, is that I don't bother with chip breakers anymore. I have come to the conclusion that grinding a tool that is efficient and cuts well is more important than what it does to the chip, and that it is up to me to use that tool well. Hope this clarifies my personal position.
 
Mikey- early in the thread you mentioned a Pyroceram platten liner? I have never used one. How often do those come loose or break? What happens when they do? It it catastrophic or dangerous?
Robert
 
I've been researching Pyroceram liners also. I've read that some people use JB Weld and others use carpet double side tape.
Henkels, Dow Corning and others have high temp adhesives, so I'm looking at those. There is a good metal powder adhesive that I'm waiting
on a sample for. If I could drill and countersink Pyroceram, I may use low profile screws with adhesive, I just don't know how well that material drills. Mikeys' grinder platen seems well constructed., but I'll let Mike answer that.
 
Mikey- early in the thread you mentioned a Pyroceram platten liner? I have never used one. How often do those come loose or break? What happens when they do? It it catastrophic or dangerous?
Robert

My first one lasted about 11 years before the JB Weld broke loose. When it did, it came loose because a belt snapped so I guess there was some shock to the plate. I did not have a ledge under it like I should have and it did drop down so that's not a good thing but it didn't crack at all. My replacement one has two 8-32 socket head cap screws under the lower edge of the Pyroceram so even if the JB Weld comes loose, it shouldn't drop down. The danger, of course, is broken glass flying in your face so that's another reason to be wearing safety glasses.

I have heard of others using double-stick tape. In my opinion, this is dangerous. There is some heat build up when grinding tool steel and I would not trust tape. JB Weld has a high enough heat rating that I don't worry too much about it. Before applying your epoxy, it is necessary to clean the platen and the back of the Pyroceram really well after roughing both surfaces; I use lacquer thinner for this.

If you use anything other than JB Weld, be sure the heat rating is at least as good, if not better than, JB Weld. I apply a thin layer of the stuff and then use spring clamps over the entire surface - so maybe 6 clamps holding it in place. Then I let it cure for at least 24 hours before use.
 
Where did you find your liner? I am having trouble finding it on eBay?
R
 
Made a few practice pieces out of key stock. I made the first real tool today. Took a very short cut on a piece of hot rolled from Menards. Man I think it looks good. I know a short turn but will try more later.
One thing I'm really having frustration with is IMG_20170612_125324212_HDR.jpg the back rake. It is very difficult with the table I have.
Thanks Mike for the awesome write up.
 
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