[Newbie] How To Adjust Tool Height On A Lathe?

Bruce, I imagine that the interpolated those arcs with a regular end mill. If it is old, then it may be a tracer mill, or similar. I have never seen, nor believe that they make that in 2 pieces. In a home shop equipped with a rotary table it would be simple as well.
 
So how do you think they machined the arcs in the bottom of the slots? Maybe a casting? Maybe the top plate is separate and is attached after the fly cutting work? Scribed lines on the block and freehand milled with a small end mill? Just curious.

Bruce
I guess I'd do it with an end mill and a rotary table, if I had a rotary table.
 
I was afraid that my old "lantern" toolpost would be more adept at "reaching into tricky places" too. Used one stubbornly for years. But,since I have gotten an Aloris toolpost and SEVERAL tool holders,I have never looked back. My Hardinge HLVH came with its original Hardsinge tool post. They wanted $275.00 PER tool holder(And not even hardened!) That was in the 90's,too! I had one,and just cut a LONG piece of thick steel with a dovetail joint. Then,I sliced the tool holders off like a loaf of bread,and finished machining the slots. The main trouble was TAPPING all those holes!(I should have searched for my tapping attachment!! I made 20 tool holders. 10 each for me and my helper,who has an older HLV.
 
George, I'll take any of those untapped blanks off your hands if they are in the way :)
 
So how do you think they machined the arcs in the bottom of the slots? Maybe a casting? Maybe the top plate is separate and is attached after the fly cutting work? Scribed lines on the block and freehand milled with a small end mill? Just curious.

Bruce

It's no longer in my possession; it went with a lathe I sold. Therefore I can't examine it and tell you. I am planning on making one like it, probably in two parts and make the concave cut on the horizontal mill.
 
So how do you think they machined the arcs in the bottom of the slots? Maybe a casting? Maybe the top plate is separate and is attached after the fly cutting work? Scribed lines on the block and freehand milled with a small end mill? Just curious.

Bruce

WAG A three spindle Hydrotel with tracer?

Edit, I see Tony beat me to it!
 
Kind of a "duh" moment on my part! Sure, rotary table would make it easy.

Bruce
 
wowzers. given that this is so important, that the default for a lathe is "we got nothing, figure something out yourself" seems pretty lame. I would have expected at least a small fine-tuning adjustment.

Guess I'm off to buy a QC tool post.

JKilroy on Utube has a 2-part video showing a very accurate dedicated tool height gageing
That is known as a 4-way tool post, one of the most solid and rigid posts made. However, it is a pain to adjust tool height and yes, you do have to shim your tools. Once you settle on a given shank size you'll accumulate shims that will get you adjusted fairly quickly ... at least until you sharpen your tool and then it all changes again. This hassle is the key reason most of us use quick change tool posts. While not as rigid as a 4-way they allow for quick and easy height adjustment, which is a compromise most of us live with.

I recently visited JKilroy on line who some of you must know has a Utube site and showed his very accurate device for measuring cutter tool height. (a week or so ago) He built the device which uses a dedicated dial indicator to set tool height within .001". He shows all of the steps of his build in two videos. For all of the fussy machinists here it's quite interesting.
 
I wound up getting a shim 'kit' from BusyBee, and then getting a set of feeler gauges for fine tuning after seeing that the thinnest shim in the kit was 0.3mm, and I am, at least in the near term, working on things < 25mm in diameter (and for smaller stuff, it's more critical to be closer to center than for larger stuff).

Now I am on to actually using it. Jumped into the middle of the pool doing threads on a 3/8" rod of mild steel [sure I could use my set of taps, but I want to learn how to use the lathe].

So far:
-killed the tip of one bit by doing too much at one and/or not doing a short relief cut at the end of the thread [so the lathe doesn't just come to a stop at a random point at the end of the thread]
-forgot to figure out how deep for the threads to be correct [went out and got a set of measuring wires today]
-killed two chuck keys by stupidly leaving them in the 3-jaw head and then running the lathe...dumb dumb dumb
-eventually, I'll have to go through the wiring/whatever controller or relays or whatever is running the motor, as for some of the speed settings, the motor pulses really badly. The slower ones don't do it, but I like my tools to work properly.
-the tailstock on the lathe doesn't appear to support being offset from center [one way to do tapers], but there is a fairly substantial dohickey on the far side of the saddle that appears to be used for doing tapers instead
-my dad has, well had, a lot of tools and instruments for machining, ones that I played with/occasionally damaged growing up and never knew what they were for, and now I'm starting to find out.

I'll give it another shot with another 'E' carbide-tipped tool, but if I bust that tip, I'll give grinding a piece of HSS into the right shape on my grinder [which appears to have the right grinding wheels for doing it [green & gray] vs a regular grinding wheel].
 
Dave, it was fun reading your post. Who amongst us hasn't had similar things happen, or worse! You'll look back at this post in a year and be amazed at what you did back then. Welcome to the club, welcome to the hobby and welcome to HM!
 
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