How do you label HSS lathe tools?

T

tmenyc

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
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I have 6-7 AXA general tool holders and 8-9 distinct tools, between the insert holders and the HSS tools, not including the obvious parting holder and extended holder. But I haven't found a way to label tool holders or tools that seems to work. I have squares of masking tape on tool holders, but it gets oily and doesn't last. I have sharpie names on tools that aren't obviously one thing or another, but that rubs off. So I'm curious, what do you do that actually lasts?

Thanks,
Tim
 
For the HSS bits, I'm going to use a Dremel type bit and mark them from now on.
 
I have never marked any of mine. I just look for what I need and use it. The shape of the bit tells what it is useful for and the rake and clearance angles are different enough to see. If the bit isn't quite right for what I want a minute on the grinder fixes it and with a little honing its off to making chips.
 
There are several metallurgical compositions that I have a few of, and I can't tell the difference between them.
 
Aukai,
What kind of Dremel bit are you referring to? And yes, cobalt doesn't look different from M2.
Tim
 
I have a pneumatic pencil tool that uses the 1/8 Dremel's. I'm thinking a small ball end, whatever one does not skate all over. If the HSS is too hard I have the small abrasive wheel to try also.
 
One way would be to have a rack for the tool holders and mark that with a label maker. Use one at a time and always put it back where it belongs, could do the same with a drawer with dividers.

John
 
True. The holders go on a shelf above and behind the lathe where I can easy reach them. I could label the shelf, I suppose.
 
Years ago in 4- H we made an electric marking pen. We used bailing wire for the soft iron core. A bundle about 3\4 of an inch and 6 inches long. Warped it with black tape and several layers of coiled bell wire for an electric magnet. Next we took a piece of sheet metal about 3/4 of an inch wide by about five to six inches long and bent about one inch of the end of it 90 degrees to form an armature. Then taped the long end of it to the coil magnet with about a 1\4 inch gap to the iron core. On the short side a brass screw was soldered to the middle of the armature. Had to be all brass screw not just brass plate. One end of the wire from the coil was soldered to the armature the other end of the wire went to a 12 volt power source like a battery . The neg. side of the battery went to the metal to be marked. The brass screw was what marked the metal. In operation it acted as a buzzer with the brass screw the make and break contact with the metal. The arc is what marked the metal so there didn't have to be a hardened point. It would mark hard steel or soft metal as long as it had a clean contact surface. Simple to make from what ever is laying around and will mark anything that conducts electricity. If you try to use a steel wood screw or a brass plates one the screw will weld to the work piece.
 
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