How do I reassemble a tall mill (VN #12) in a basement with very tight headroom?

I should have taken a photo of me next to the mill for reference but I didn't. Here are a couple of similar mills.

trailer.jpgside.jpg


The scissors table won't lift it nearly high enough because the ram cannot be shoved into place by me from across.
It is too heavy. It has to be lowered from above and swung/slid into place while being held up.

I had an idea modifying the suggestion of using pipe between the joists.

What if I cut 2 pieces of 2x10, bolt them to the existing joists (double up), put the pipe into slots or holes in the "new joists".
That way, if I crack the joists, I am cracking the new joists, not the ones holding up the house.

What type of pipe would be strong enough to hold the 350+ pound column?


:tiphat:Nelson

side.jpg trailer.jpg
 
The problem with modifying the house is that you never know when that is going to come back and bite you in the butt.
What I would do;
Anchor the base. Just to keep it from moving around when your doing the other stuff.
Using your 2 x 10s as a ramp place the middle section ontop of the base. 2 guys
Reassemble the knee and table. 2 guys
Put the head on the table and raise the table to place the head. If it is too heavy to place on the table you can use the middle secion as a fulcrum to lever the head onto the table. 2guys
do the same for the motor.
 
Nelson, how far apart are the joists? You can bolt the new lumber to the existing joists and using a right angle drill and forstner bit, drill thru the joist and the scab and insert the pipe. Pipe size depends on distance between joists.
Pat
 
This may sound like a backwards step, and not being intimately familiar with the machine it may be a worthless idea, but how heavy are the bare castings, in their smallest, lightest form? In extreme cases, I've had to take things apart completely, set into place, then assemble them. I mean with no gears, bearings, shafts, etc..
 
Nelson, do you have a come-along. Whats the other name for a come-along? Mind went totally blank, man I hate when that happens. Anyway, you will need to do the same scabbing and boring a little further down those two joists, say, 3 feet. Hook your come-along on the second pipe and run the cable over the first pipe and connect to the mill part you want to raise, then you can raise the mill part right up to the bottom of the joist. Thats how I would do it, and the extra lumber scabs will just make the joists stronger. No danger of the joists breaking from having drilled them, (unless they are rotten). If you are concerned about sagging the floor, shore up the joists on either side of where the mill will be. Put your 4X4's from the floor up to the joists on both sides of the mill.

JMHO Pat
 
you could assemble the mill on pieces of wood then lift it and put pipe under it then roll it into position under the water pipes..
 
HSS said:
Nelson, do you have a come-along. Whats the other name for a come-along? Mind went totally blank, man I hate when that happens. Anyway, you will need to do the same scabbing and boring a little further down those two joists, say, 3 feet. Hook your come-along on the second pipe and run the cable over the first pipe and connect to the mill part you want to raise, then you can raise the mill part right up to the bottom of the joist. Thats how I would do it, and the extra lumber scabs will just make the joists stronger. No danger of the joists breaking from having drilled them, (unless they are rotten). If you are concerned about sagging the floor, shore up the joists on either side of where the mill will be. Put your 4X4's from the floor up to the joists on both sides of the mill.

JMHO Pat
Click to expand...


I have a come-along and chain hoist.

I think you hit on it. The floor joists are 2x8s. They are about 17 inches on center apart. My ramp planks are 2x10s. I have 3-10 foot lengths to use.
I propose to bolt two 2x10 sections about 4 or 5 feet long to the 2x8 floor joists on the inside of the joists. This will strengthen them.
The 2x10s will have a round hole cut out with a keyhole saw in the middle of their width. The pipe gets inserted through the hole, then the 2x10s get bolted to the 2x8 joists.
I see no reason to drill through the 2x8 joists and weaken them- the 2x10s should hold the pipe well.
Chain hoist on the pipe to lift slowly.
DSC05660.JPGDSC05662.JPGDSC05661.JPG

What size pipe and what size bolts should I use so that the pipe doesn't bend under 450 pounds or so, and the bolts don't pull through the 2x8 joists?
I presume washers are a must on both sides of the bolts. I had thought to use carriage bolts and washers with hex nuts.

In the alternative, 2- 4x4's from the floor bolted to the ceiling joists with the pipe in between. No chance of damaging the joists that way, since the 4x4s support the weight.

DSC05663.JPG

Sound feasible? Which way sounds best?


Thanks,


Nelson

DSC05660.JPG DSC05661.JPG DSC05662.JPG DSC05663.JPG
 
The chain hoist wont work, you don't have enough head room. You will have to use the comealong on a horizontal pull between the joists with the cable over the pipe. I would use either 1-1/2" or 2" schedule 40 pipe. 2" is what I have the most of anyway. If you bolt the 2 X inside the joist your 17" centers will be 14". You won't bend 2" pipe on 14" centers with 450 lbs and you wont pull any bolts thru the joists. Use hex head bolts with washers and nuts. 3/8" will work fine.
Pat
FFR when you measure center to center, hook your tape over one joist and measure to near side of second joist. Same as center to center and easier to do.
 
a boat winch and strap would work, but might be more than you would want to spend.
 
When you make the hole in the scabs, go above middle. Get some wood under that pipe. You only need enough clearence above the pipe to get the cable and hook over it.
450# with a boat winch? Now that would be a workout!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top