How do I fit this bushing?

There's more to this than size. Concentricity is also important, as is perpendicularity. Normally, I believe this is done with a lap or hone, with guides. We had a member at one time who specialized in building H-D motors, and had factory training and tooling in his personal shop. Pity he moved on. We could use his advice here. See if you can find the factory procedure. I'm quite sure it involves more than a simple boring job. Go/NoGo gages won't really be good for this. A dial bore gage is only as good as your setting standard. Telescoping gages and a good micrometer are probably your bet bet if you are comfortable using them. Practice, practice, practice.

I'm not saying you can't do this, by any means, but be careful, consult all the technical manuals you can find and try to get the best tooling for the job.

Oh, and spring calipers are out for all practical purposes. Hitting 0.0005 tolerance zone would be pretty difficult. I've been at this a while, and I wouldn't try it.
 
Tony Wells said:
There's more to this than size. Concentricity is also important, as is perpendicularity. Normally, I believe this is done with a lap or hone, with guides. We had a member at one time who specialized in building H-D motors, and had factory training and tooling in his personal shop. Pity he moved on. We could use his advice here. See if you can find the factory procedure. I'm quite sure it involves more than a simple boring job. Go/NoGo gages won't really be good for this. A dial bore gage is only as good as your setting standard. Telescoping gages and a good micrometer are probably your bet bet if you are comfortable using them. Practice, practice, practice.

I'm not saying you can't do this, by any means, but be careful, consult all the technical manuals you can find and try to get the best tooling for the job.

Oh, and spring calipers are out for all practical purposes. Hitting 0.0005 tolerance zone would be pretty difficult. I've been at this a while, and I wouldn't try it.
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HAHAHA the procedure for sizing bushing is to use the factory approved tool. Basically a big reamer.Now this transmission design is from 1936 where a little oil leaking is no big deal.I'm trying to seal this up 2012 style.I have read up on this prcedure and it seems the lathe with 4 jaw is the preferred method from the experts.I just need to be able to measure it properlly.I probably will get it done somewhere.JW
 
If your primary concern is size, then I'd use a telescoping gage and micrometer. .0005 is no big deal if you're used to them and have good set. Do a good close job of indicating the bore and the face, and bore away!

Unless you have a DRO, stick an indicator in your cross slide. Don't trust your dial.
 
I'll "second" using a hone. That bushing is fairly long and I'd hate to have a boring bar start to chatter half way through it.

-Ron
 
PaulT said:
close enough for a shovel but it will leak eventually ;)
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That's almost like saying, "it will eventually rain in a tropical forest". :biggrin:

I own two that are both in many, many parts at the moment.

-Ron
 
Harley's don't leak, they mark their spot.

I'm having a little trouble with the factory procedure being a simple ream. The finish wouldn't be all that good. Where can I find a reference to the manual that shows that?
 
Tony Wells said:
Harley's don't leak, they mark their spot.

If no hone machine is available..
Then use a adjustable reamer and worry the bronze out to fit.
Nice and slow.

Remember:
"If you use what you have got ..Then you won't need what you have not"

Robbie...just noticed your in central Fla.If your not too far stop by and I'll hone it for you
Robbie's Machine Service

PS. I just noticed your in central Fla.
If your not too far away, stop by and I'll hone out it with you.
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Last edited:
"PS. I just noticed your in central Fla.
If your not too far away, stop by and I'll hone out it with you."


Thanks for the offer Robbie.Can I get your contact info? I will gladly pay you to fit the bushing.I have checked several shops and they all want to ream it "no problem we do it all the time". Thanks again.John W.
 
Proper procedure should be to press in the new bushing, indicate it to death to make sure it runs true in the lathe, be it in a 4 jaw, pot chuck, or whatever, then bore it to within 0.001, then hone t to final size. Reamers only follow the existing hole, the do not correct for concentricity, or perpendicularity. And the finish most of them leave is far rougher than a honed finish.

I strongly recommend bore, then hone this bushing. Sounds like Robbie can handle it.
 
Thanks everybody,I'm going to get with Robbie and get it done..John W
 
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