How Did You Level Your BP? What Pad Did you use?

[Cadillac]

When I got my bp I also thought about mounting and leveling feet. I’m six foot and still have aliitle reach for drawbar. I didn’t want the machine any taller than already was. No power drawbar been on the list of things to make!
I used a 1/4” thick rubber matting I think was from a truck bed liner. It works good for irregularities in floor which was brand new. I didn’t worry about leveling precisely just let it settle in to mat. I don’t think it needs to be exact level. I indicate everything in on table so level doesn’t matter.
I think the holes in base are for bolting machine down. So if table is offset or you have ram fully extended or offset with large part on table it does tip the machine.

 

[aliva]

My BP clone is bolted to the floor and then leveled with SS shims, no pads

 

[wcunning]

These are my leveling feet, ready to go on the lathe. Hopefully I'll have it up on the feet this weekend, but we'll see how clearing out around it for the hoist goes...

 

[Janderso]

I finally got around to leveling my Bridgeport. I purchased a precision 12" level. I welded 3/4" nuts on some 3/4" ready rod. Inserted in pre threaed holes.
That was not easy. When I get the front side to side level, one of the back feet are off the ground. I finally got everything all worked around. Overnight it settled some. Made another attempt at finding the bubble. The mill has settled down. I used it last night, works great, very stable.
My table is warped some, I placed the level on parallels. It has to be better than it was.
At least all the feet are solid on the concrete and I can see the bubble 9-3 and 12-6. oclock.
Hey, all we can do is the best we can right?

 

[MrWhoopee]

While a good idea, level isn't that critical with a mill. It won't cut a taper or out of square if it's half a bubble off. As long as it doesn't rock and the endmill doesn't roll off the table, it's all good.

 

[Janderso]

Thank you Mr. W.
I have used this mill when it did in fact rock. I was determined to at least shim the high spot.
I am comfortable at this point.

 

[coffmajt]

Like Randy, I tapped four of the base holes in my knee mill for 3/4 NC and inserted some rubber padded jack screws, which let me level the mill with ease. I checked it every few weeks and had to make some small adjustments, but after a few months it became very stable and has remained that way. The rubber feet seem to make it run quieter as well -- Jack

 

[Janderso]

I put pieces of a truck inner liner (tube) just for fun. I plan on adding stout solid rubber pads.
Good to hear though.

 

[Shootymacshootface]

I leveled mine using copper wedges.

Clausing FV-1 here and used pieces of sheet metal to level. I would think that copper would compress over time, on the other hand sheet metal may thicken as it trusts over time. Both of which are probably insignificant.

While a good idea, level isn't that critical with a mill. It won't cut a taper or out of square if it's half a bubble off. As long as it doesn't rock and the endmill doesn't roll off the table, it's all good.

I totally agree, but did level mine to make setting up parts to mill angles using a level or my magnetic protractor.

 

[Janderso]

I saw a Youtube where someone used a digital magnetic protractor. Is that slick or what?