How Did You Level Your BP? What Pad Did you use?

Janderso

Janderso

Jeff Anderson
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Mar 26, 2018
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Hi,
I am getting ready to level my South Bend Lathe and My Step Pulley Bridgeport.
I have been checking out the internet and a few youtube videos. I would like to ask the group and learn from your experience.
I am planning on making the adjuster/feet.
Did you buy a machinests level?
How did you lift it to slip in the pads/adjusters?
Thank you!
 
It's interesting that Bridgeport wants us to bolt them to the floor >from the manual<
"It is recommended that the machine be secured to the floor to prevent movement
or tipping due to off-center loading."
I don't think I would do that. I just want my mill to be level and stable. Right now it rocks a bit on my concrete garage floor.
 
Before you get too carried away take a look at the construction of the base. The older machines have a hollow base with 4 unthreaded holes for securing the base to the floor. Bridgeport recommends leveling on this style machine be accomplished by shims placed between the base and the floor near each of the anchor bolt holes.

Here's a link to the manual for the older machines with the hollow base:

file:///C:/Users/fourm/Machine%20Shop%20Info/Bridgeport%20milling%20machine/bridgeport-manual%20older%20J@J.pdf

Newer machines have a C casting at the base. There are 4 threaded holes used for leveling or anchoring the machine to the floor. The leveling/anchor bolts pass through 2 threaded surfaces before exiting the bottom of the machine.

Here's a link to the manual for the newer machines with the C flange on the base:

http://hardingeus.com/usr/pdf/Knee Mills/SeriesIPartList4302Plus.pdf

I would caution against using leveling legs on the older style machines. The casting is only about 5/8" thick at the bolt holes and much thinner nearer the center. I doubt the machine could support the full 750 lbs. the work table is capable of if the base is not firmly on the floor.
 
Very good information Mr. Projectnut. Thank you sir. I could have gone down the wrong road. I wonder if Randy ever drilled/tapped his BP?
I think I will just shim with an adequate material after I accomplish how to level it.
 
I have had an older (1972) Bridgeport in the shop going on 20 years. All I've ever done to level it is place shims near the corner holes. I originally thought about anchoring it to the floor, but I'm glad I didn't. When it first came in the shop it's only company was a drill press and a lathe. There are now nearly two dozen pieces of equipment and all have been moved at least 3 times to make room for the latest acquisition. There isn't much room left now, buy who knows, if the right machine comes along I might need to rearrange one more time.
 
In the shop I apprenticed in (later shop foreman), and my own shop, we never anchored the mills. Too hard to rearrange the furniture when there's a new addition. As far as leveling a mill, it's mostly just to keep things from rolling off the table or to ensure that the coolant drains. Use a carpenter's level and get it stable on the floor so it won't rock. A lathe is another matter, though my SB Heavy 10 was just leveled the same way. It cuts .0003 taper over 14 in., but it's only a 4 ft. bed.

I'm thinking someone needs to offer rental of a precision level.
 
I have a Supermax brand BP clone and have done an admittedly poor job of shimming it so far. What do you guys use for shim stock? How much of an area of the footprint do you try to shim? (I'm guessing the more the better?) Am I correct in assuming that, within reasonably close tolerances, 'stabilizing' is really more important than 'leveling'?

I'm off close to 1/4" on the worst corner and have shimmed it by tapering a couple of pieces of scrap 1/2" square cold-rolled. Generally, it's stable, but occasionally there is mild vibration.

Regards,
Terry
 
Mine isn't levelled--yet. My friend bert made custom 2" aluminum pads, machined to precise thicknesses. He had to remachine the last one, as the floor wasn't flat to the thou (go figure?) :)
 
Dabbler said:
Mine isn't levelled--yet. My friend bert made custom 2" aluminum pads, machined to precise thicknesses. He had to remachine the last one, as the floor wasn't flat to the thou (go figure?) :)
Click to expand...

Reminds me of the custom delrin foot pads I had to make for the new claw-foot tub in my old home. They varied from 1/8 to 7/16. Nothing was level in that place. Not just anybody can do that kind of work.
 
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