Horizontal vs Vertical Compressor and Tank

So for the dynamite formula, What is the rating for a typical 20 gallon tank at 125 psi?

Standard 20gal tank has about 87kj of energy, or the equivalent of 0.02Kg TNT.

Assuming there is no flying debris or other projectiles & secondary damage, safe distance to avoid ruptured eardrums is about a meter.

But thats just the blast wave. The real fun is when the tank launches itself and other stuff around it at high speeds.
 
I don't think high explosives are a good analogy for a burst air tank, HE have a much higher blast velocity, usually over 20,000 feet per second. I doubt compressed air alone would even approach those speeds. Perhaps a low explosive like black powder would be a more appropriate reference.
 
Haven't seen any data as to failure analysis of horizontal vs. vertical air tanks, we can hypothesize about what might be occurring, but if there is no statistical evidence then it is conjecture. Typically the lawyers would step in if one is selling a product that they deem more questionable. Almost all larger compressor/tank are horizontal, typically more commercial oriented, often sitting outside for decades chugging along. Durability is based on construction and maintenance, so getting an automatic drain and possible an after cooler will help. I have had two horizontal compressors, a Curtis 2 stage 60 gallon, and my current Champion 2 stage 80 gallon. space permitting I prefer a horizontal, easier to service/move and less top heavy. If you are in earthquake areas this may be a more significant factor. The footprint of the Curtis was very compact, and the Champion with an 80 gallon is not much longer. When moving them, I substituted casters for the feet and they were easy to move.

As far as longevity, as long as you drain the water regularly, the tank/compressor should outlive most of us. My Champion HR5-8 came with an after cooler and an auto drain. I recommend a few changes, some of the electric/float bowel auto drains have a reservoir so any residual water will typically flow into the drain and not sit in the tank, the alternative is adding a bronze elbow and some bronze tubing to extend the valve so any residual water draining will collect in the bronze piping. Many compressors will come with segments of iron pipe either connecting from the compressor to the tank check valve and from the bottom of the tank to the drain valve, get rid of them as they will rust over time. Switch them out for bronze or stainless fittings. The iron elbow on the bottom of my tank had rusted in place after little use, the tank high pressure check valve also failed because of rust from the cast iron pipe it was connect to. I replaced these fittings with a bronze elbows and bronze straight segmented.

They also make stubby vertical tank versions. I purchased mine from Pacific Air Compressors, good pricing without the BS. Look for a low speed compressor with a 1750 RPM motor, I would go with what ever tanks style suits your space. If you need a lot of air they make a V4 7.5 Hp version which puts out 25CFM at 575 RPM pump speed. Lots of good compressors/brands in the 5-7.5Hp range that have been around for a long time.
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For those of you who think it's no big deal when an air tank fails, google "air compressor tank explodes", click images, and scroll through them. Note, some of the images are NSFW.
 
I have to politely disagree. My experience is that corrosion pits in pressure vessels can cause a loss of containment both through pinhole leaks and through catastropic cracking.

The pinholes are obvious, but in other cases the pits are close enough together that when the pressure reaches the critical point the remaining material in the bottom of the pit tears - and if there are other pits nearby you get a 'connect-the-dots' effect and we now have a linear discontinuity and the tank unzips explosively.

"Modern" vs. "Old" vessels is a meaningless comparison. One cannot conclude that modern tanks are of lesser quality than older tanks without knowing the steel specification, original thickness, fabrication techniques, quality control, and other factors which add up to suitability for intended service.

The only difference between Modern and Old, from an engineering standpoint, is that older tanks may be slightly thicker for a given pressure/temperature rating. This is because modern steels - from responsible suppliers - are of generally higher quality than older steels. Higher strength materials can be made thinner - and less expensive - and still retain the same component strength.

In addition, Modern tank manufacturing methods can include automated examination methods to reduce the likelihood of defects in the welds and base materials. That 1950's tank was not subject to continuous eddy current examination of the coil stock, nor were the welds ultrasonically tested after fabrication - those technologies simply didn't exist outside of NASA back then.

The steel manufacturing industry has changed quite a bit in 50 years, as has the commodity vessel business. I would argue that a discount Sears Craftsman air tank from 1970 is of lower quality than a modern tank supplied by Quincy. Even then I'd be guessing unless I had the pressure vessel construction documents in front of me.

The above does not apply, of course, to ultra low cost vessels made from HuFlungPu Good Luck Joy Tank, Ltd. Or to situations where there is some contaminate in the tank which causes environmental cracking. A leaking compressor can dump oil in to the tank. If that oil has a high level of sodium hydroxide or other caustic (used as a detergent in the oil) and the detergent concentrates near a weld - the weld can crack. No pits, no rust - just bang.



Agreed, but I would expand this to say that you should not try to weld on a modern or old vessel without knowing what you're doing - and that doesn't include 20yrs of experience welding stuff around the house.

There is no jurisdiction in the US (or UK) which permits anyone to weld on a pressure vessel without following quite a lot of rules. In most of the US, you have to obtain an R-stamp license from the National Board of Boiler & Pressure Vessel Inspectors. The welder has to be qualified in accordance with ASME Section IX, as does the welding procedure. The welding consumables & replacement materials have to be supported by signed documents attesting to the chemical and physical properties, and the examination techniques must follow ASME Section V.

The exceptions are the oil-country states (TX, LA, etc.), but they have similar restrictions and use American Pertroleum Institute standards and not the National Board.

In the UK the HSE controls the repair of vessels much the same way, but with even more restrictions on welder & inspector certifications.

Remember kids... we in the failure analysis business quantify stored pneumatic energy by calcualting the equivalent release of energy in units of dynamite. i.e. "This vessel at such and such pressue equals xxx kilograms of dynamite."

The regulations about licensing compressors may be irritating, especially because they're written by politicians who are generally clueless about the subject they're regulating. But the engineering principles behind the actual technical regulations is sound, and those priciples are based on real people getting really dead when stuff blows up.

-Ralph
I did use the word "generally" in my post!
 
I don't think high explosives are a good analogy for a burst air tank, HE have a much higher blast velocity, usually over 20,000 feet per second. I doubt compressed air alone would even approach those speeds. Perhaps a low explosive like black powder would be a more appropriate reference.

It's not an analogy, it's an energy equivalency calculation. Joules are joules, regardless of source and the speed of the pressure wave is not part of the formula. You're quire right in that the pressure wave velocity is much slower than with HE.

And blast wave overpressure results are the same regardless of wave source... as in X pressure above atmospheric will break windows at Y distance from origination, 2X will do such and such, and so forth.

The formula is intended to determine minimum safe distances during pneumatic pressure tests.

Haven't seen any data as to failure analysis of horizontal vs. vertical air tanks, we can hypothesize about what might be occurring, but if there is no statistical evidence then it is conjecture.
I have data for hundreds of pressure vessels in many different fluid services; I inspect new, in-service, and failed vessels almost daily; The damage mechanism I've described and the differences between vertical and horizontal vessels is not conjecture. Horizontal vessels always have a heel of product (water, oil, ethylene oxide, methylethylbadstuff, etc.) unless they are perfectly level. Vertical vessels with torospherical heads do not unless they have internal features (intended or not) which restrict draining.

Almost all larger compressor/tank are horizontal, typically more commercial oriented, often sitting outside for decades chugging along.

In small commercial package compressors this is true. In 'larger' industrial compressor systems the vessels are separate from the compressors and are typically vertical.

High-pressure air flasks (>2kpsig) are the exception. These tend to be horizontal.

As far as longevity, as long as you drain the water regularly, the tank/compressor should outlive most of us.
This, for the win.
 
Here is a tragic yet interesting case:
It appears tanks can actually explode not just burst/rupture!
 
Anyone mount their compressor separate from the tank? Why/Why not?
 
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