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Winner Homemade Lathe Build Log

  • Thread starter Thread starter Andre
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Here is my oops. Some people say this is a machinist's signature.....So yes, I guessed I signed this one LOL

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Those oops monents will will always be present Andre, they may come fewer and further between as the years go by but every now and then you'll be saying to yourself, I can't believe I just did that..!:thinking:
Your lathe looks really good... Keep up the good work....!:))
 
Those oops monents will will always be present Andre, they may come fewer and further between as the years go by but every now and then you'll be saying to yourself, I can't believe I just did that..!:thinking:
Your lathe looks really good... Keep up the good work....!:))

Thanks!
Yea I know....just a bummer when it happens. It will get wended and refinished sometime, and even though it will not be invisible it will be a lot better than it is now. And I might get to see some TIG welding, only have seen MIG welding, and that was a long time ago.

*************UPDATE*******************


So I'm doing a little work on the cross slide before working on collets. I needed to make some L brackets and only had 3/4" square aluminum. Lets just say hogging out .300" DOP on a rickety bridgeport is an experience for sure! Removing a square inch of material on a single pass is really fun....

Cutting the stock.

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This is a mill to the line project, so I'm marking lines with my homemade height gauge. It works very well.

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Here's that 0.300" pass :)) The chips sound like broken glass when landing on the exposed Y axis way.

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Holes drilled and tapped.

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Here is what that L bracket of for, it is the leadscrew nut.

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I'm going to work some more on the cross slide, maybe an update later on tonight as well.

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Okay, not as much done today as I hoped. But I did make some progress.

Here is a mock-up of how the cross slide will sit on the lathe.

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If I was planning ahead when I cut the top pieces of the female slide, I would've made it longer towards the back and bent it down to act as a bracket for the leadscrew to push against. But when I cut it out I procrastinated to figure it out later:angry:

So now I'm making that curved piece. It will be attached by a woodworking style lap joint.

Here is the piece ready to be bent in the vise "brake"

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Now that it's bent I'm milling the ends at a 45* angle just for looks. A sketchy setup but it worked.

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This is how it will sit on the back.

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And this is after the lap joint is cut. I'm thinking of using red locktite to glue this in place, but opinions are very welcome on this!

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So now I need a hole in that bracket for the leadscrew. And dummy me I drilled a clearance hole for a 1/4-20 screw not 10-24! I have done that twice today....did it before on the L bracket I made earlier. Good thing that one was a test. So I turned a bushing on my milling machine and I think this will work better than the bare aluminum. A mistake with a bonus.

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And here is how the lower slide will look like. Still need to attach the back curve and drill the bushing through.

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Thanks for looking!

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Andre,
I notice you do a lot of "turning" on your mill. Do you not have a lathe?

Cheers Phil
 
Andre,
I notice you do a lot of "turning" on your mill. Do you not have a lathe?

Cheers Phil

I do not have a lathe currently, that's why I am building this one to do simple small turning jobs. I only have the materials currently to build one this small and any bigger lathe I build the headstock would have to be line bored.

Turning on the mill is actually very effective, even can take a nice heavy cut. I will use the mill to make all the collets for the lathe and bore the spindle to accept the collet.
 
Andre, YesI have turned a few things with my mill before and it worked quite well. I do have a lathe, but sometimes it is set up for something. The first time Idid itwas just to do it because I seen it done.I also somethimes use the spindexer to turn in the mill. This works well for tapers that are not the critical. Mark
 
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