Help with an Enco 92030 that won't turn off

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VerneCO

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So I am new here and pretty new to machining in general (Ive used a friend's 3-phase lathe a few times and had a mini lathe for a while).

I recently got a new to me Enco 92030 from 1983 (Its a 12X36 I believe). A friend who knows a little bit more about lathes in general than I do bought this lathe for me and verified that it looked pretty good and worked. He's in Vegas and I live in Peoria, AZ. After he got the lathe I went up and retrieved it a few months ago. It has some tooling including a 3 jaw chuck, 4-jaw, quick change tool post, and more.

I found some thread here suggesting that the closest manual to what would be original to this lathe is the one available as a PDF for an Enco 110-2033 lathe. This manual seems to be mostly correct but also doesn't have much detail or specifics...especialy when it comes to the wiring and or switches. Just a fairly generic wiring diagram that seems to be mostly correct.

Anyways its been hot as hell here, as is usual, and I have slowly been working on tightening and fixing the heavy bench that the lathe came with ahead of cleaning it and learning to use it.

With the bench tightened and partially re-built I wired up a plug to match my 240v outlet (which is supposedly what the seller had it plugged into) and it does in fact turn (counter clockwise)...but regardless of what you do, the switches don't change that, and you have to unplug it to stop the machine. Luckily the first time I plugged it in I made sure that the auto feed stuff was disengaged and there was nothing in the way of the chuck!

It seems to have the forward/reverse shift lever on the right of the machine (like other lathes Ive used) which seems to be in the neutral, center position and I haven't messed with that lever while its plugged in.

It also has a large red kill switch that you have to turn and pull to activate I'm guessing?
There is also a green start button next to the kill switch.
It also has an electric switch for a fluid pump which seems to be missing from the lathe and the switch is just a hole filler in the switch pannel.

As for wiring its got a lot. It has what I assume is a breaker that says 15A, two magnetic contractors, and a machine tool transformer which I gather is what allows it to work on 110v, 220v and possibly three phase (Although I believe that would require a different motor?...the motor says single phase and has 4 wires coming from it).

My problem now is I am not sure where to start figuring out if its got a bad switch, faulty wiring, a stuck relay/contactor, or what. Hell I am not even sure I know how the switches on the lathe are supposed to work. All I know is if you plug it in the chuck turns counter clockwise with some authority.

The mechanical switches that control the screw feed seem pretty straightforward and I can see how they would change the direction of the screw feed parts and or disengage them, while playing with them with the machine unplugged.

Soon I can post some pictures (as a newbie) and maybe someone here can help me figure out what is wrong with this machine. I'm hesitant to start taking stuff apart or messing with the wiring until I at least have some basic idea of what parts do what.

Thanks in advance!
 
Don't disassemble more.
Do take good clear photos and post as soon as you are able.
Post your electrical schematic as soon as possible.
If you hit the large red button does it stop?
Or coast to a stop?
Did you call your buddy who bought it for you and describe what's happening ?
Perhaps he knows the secret....
 
I'll see if I can post photos yet. As said the wiring schematic seems to be pretty vague and I don't know if its exactly correct for my lathe. I talked to my buddy who doesn't really remember what the guy selling it did to make it work. Seems like its also very similar to this lathe:
https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g9249_m.pdf
IMG_4498.jpg
IMG_4363.jpg

IMG_4362.jpg
https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g9249_m.pdf
IMG_4237.jpg

 
If the motor has been replaced often times it's wired wrong, so we'll need to look at that. Motor should have 3 supply wires.
Sounds like it's been jury rigged or there's a broken or jammed switch, possibly the apron lever reverse switch which is
usually on the headstock down on the right side.
Post a few pictures and I'll take a look. The transformer tap should be set for 220 volts input if you are using 220 volts supply
Those contactors are old and they can fail after a decade or two
 
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Here are some more photos...also pulled the cover off the motor wiring and found some terminals bolted together in a way I am sure wasn't done in the factory.

Behind the switch panel the red and green wires were together and taped with electrical tape. I assumed they went to the fluid pump switch (at the bottom in the third photo here). there isn't a pump or lines for fluid as far as I can see. the lathe chuck turns with those two wires together or apart.

The switches on the directional shift lever on the carriage seem fine externally and I can see how they work....

IMG_4501.jpg
IMG_4500.jpg
IMG_4502.jpg
IMG_4503.jpg
 
oh this is the photo in the Motor "box"

there was electrical tape on the three wires that are bolted together.
IMG_4505.jpg
 
The wiring at the motor looks ok, it's something else
I think maybe one contactor is jammed shut or wired to be always on somehow
Or the apron lever switch(s) are stuck or improper types or miswired
 
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We should disconnect one section at a time until it stops turning on by itself. Unplug the machine or turn off breaker for each step:
Test #1:
Disconnect the wires to the apron lever reversing microswitches. I think there are 3 or 4 wires. Remember where they go, and/or take a photo.
Power it up and see if it starts by itself. No means a switch problem or adjustment issue. If it still does put the wires back and do test #2

Test #2:
Disconnect one of the wires to the start button, re-power. Does it still start by itself? No means the button is shorted.
Yes means one of the contactors must be faulty, do test #3

Test #3:
Unplug machine. Disconnect the 3 motor wires and tape them. Plug machine back in, do you hear a clack from one of the contactors
or is it silent? If you hear a clack then there is still a wiring problem. If silent the forward contactor is broken/jammed shut and both of
them should be replaced
 
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markba633csi said:
We should disconnect one section at a time until it stops turning on by itself. Unplug the machine or turn off breaker for each step:
Test #1:
Disconnect the wires to the apron lever reversing microswitches. I think there are 3 or 4 wires. Remember where they go, and/or take a photo.
Power it up and see if it starts by itself. No means a switch problem or adjustment issue. If it still does put the wires back and do test #2

Test #2:
Disconnect one of the wires to the start button, re-power. Does it still start by itself? No means the button is shorted.
Yes means one of the contactors must be faulty, do test #3

Test #3:
Unplug machine. Disconnect the 3 motor wires and tape them. Plug machine back in, do you hear a clack from one of the contactors
or is it silent? If you hear a clack then there is still a wiring problem. If silent the forward contactor is broken/jammed shut and both of
them should be replaced
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thanks! This is exactly what I needed!
 
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